Ladoix 1er Cru "Le Bois Roussot" 2007, Capitain-Gagnerot

A second Ladoix pinot tasted at the domaine with the genial M. Capitain (retired). Framboise, blood orange, basil or chives (fawlty?), appealing soft strawberry, produces an "under the duvet" sensation of softness. Excellent fruits: berries, red currants, fresh orange finish. Surprisingly long with some Dim Weasel muscle at the end. This wine could divide blind-tasters. Is it overly fruit-driven and simple? Or will it complexify by 2011? Too enjoyable when young? If you believe fruit quality is the basis for all vinous success then this can not be laughed at. But don't mention the war.

Ladoix 1er Cru "La Micaude" 2007, Capitain-Gagnerot

Ladoix is virtually unheard of by non-Burgundy specialists. The appellation is too small to promote itself internationally. The Capitain-Gagnerot domaine has been in the village for aeons and own an impressive tableau of vineyards stretching from Clos de Vougeot, through Aloxe and Ladoix, to Pernand and Saint-Romain. This 1er Cru "La Micaude" 2007 has a very clean bright yellow colour. Fresh berries on the nose, elegant and floral. Fully ripe fruit combines well with ripe tannins to create a good structure with fresh acidity on the finish. In short, a classic fruit-driven white Burgundy which still needs 2 more years. One taster in our group complained about a lack of complexity. True, this wine is vinified for pleasure not philosophy.

Aloxe-Corton 2006, Patrick Javillier

Aloxe-Corton is best known for its grand cru white Corton-Charlemagne. A top-notch (haut de gamme) vineyard the village shares with Pernand-Vergelesses on the other side of the Corton hill. There is something in the Aloxe terroir which gives the wine a similar solid structure and slow maturing profile to Nuits and Clos de Vougeot. The Javillier fille approach to making the Aloxe is very successful in that it rounds the angular tannic edges. This is a chewy wine with a big crunchy cherry and red plum fruit mass. Flavours sweeten to raspberry coulis reflecting the rich 2006 vintage. Masculine, bon charpente, grilled meats and wafts of fennel. Perhaps Aloxe is better made by a lady? Splendid.

Bourgogne Blanc 2007, Denis Mortet

This Bourgogne chardonnay was vinified by the Denis Mortet domaine suggesting that the vineyards are not owned and worked by the domaine. Vague citrus and yellow apple aromas. Yellow and red apple, savoury, orange pith and butter bean flavours. This is well made but lacks thrill or the usual friendly personality. Not a patch on the Cuvée Oligocène from Javillier.

Volnay Vieilles Vignes 2004, Jean-Marc Bouley

For all wine-makers of the Côte d'Or, 2004 was a difficult pinot vintage with the red producers in the Côte de Beaune having a slightly easier time than those further north on the Côte de Nuits. This Volnay, made from old vines, has a red-foxy colour. Entertaining aromas in the sweet herbal range of oregano and marjoram. Licorice, gamey. Good balance on the palate but possibly too much new oak for the vintage and the wine is drying out a little (due to the lack of fruit ripeness). This domaine produced very good wines in 2004 compared to many other quality producers but even here one needs to drink up. Allez cul sec!

Pommard 2007, Jean-Marc Bouley

My blind-tasting experience tells me that the traditional distinction between velvety Volnays and muscular Pommards is only true for the wines at extremes of the communes. After all, the Volnay premier cru "Les Frémiets" is right next to the Pommard premier cru "Les Jarolières". That said, this Pommard is singularly different from the domaine's Volnay. A good deep purple, red coulour, oak, black cherry and plum nose. Even shading towards truffle and possibly peanut? Good structure and fruit. A solid Pommard. The photo shows Pommard vineyards next to the "avenue de dégustation" as you exit Beaune towards Meursault.

Volnay 1er Cru "Les Caillerets" 2007, Jean-Marc Bouley

Tasted at the domaine in late October, Les Caillerets is considered one of the top Volnay premiers crus. This wine is produced from vines with an average age of just 5 years but you wouldn't know it in a blind tasting. The vineyard has a sunny exposition and ripens early. Still closed on the nose but the palate is all finesse, minerality, class and restraint. Needs another 3 years in bottle to gain fruit fat and release pent up aromas. We preferred the Clos de la Cave but bought both.

Volnay 1er Cru "Clos de la Cave" 2007, Jean-Marc Bouley

How could you not want to try a wine from a vineyard called "Clos de la Cave"? A lovely reflective colour announces a Volnay 1er cru with oak and tree bark (beech) dominated notes with some cherry and plum background fruit. The wine is too young to express more than this aromatically. Wonderful to drink, velvety fruit, appealing and long. Gentle cries of "Oh yes!" and "Please Sir, can I have some more?" resonated around the Bouley tasting room. We heard that the 2007s budded so early in the year that if it hadn't been for the rain in July and August then 2007 pinots would have been picked even earlier than the 2003s. But 2007 is a vastly superior vintage.

Volnay 2006, Jean-Marc Bouley

We last visited the Bouley domaine perched on the steep Volnay hillside in May 2006 and enjoyed the successful 2004s. Jean-Marc's son has now taken over the wine-making (as shown in photograph) bringing more recent viticultural and vinicultural advances to the wines. The 2006 vintage was ripe and balanced, a plump year without the bigger tannins of 2005. This Volnay 2006, aged 25% in new oak barrels, is toasty and cherry flavoured. Bright raspberry coulis fruit, good balance and quite long. As with the 2004s from the domaine, one imbibes and then asks for more. Always a good sign!

Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru "Les Serpentières" 2007, Patrick Javillier

While I prefer to assess wines on their own merits it is worthwhile comparing for terroir and typicity. This Serpentières is vastly different from the Grands Liards also tasted at the domaine Patrick Javillier. A clear victory for a wine-makeress expressing terroir. Violets, aubergine flowers, seaweed, squid ink, iodine and blood orange. These fascinating aromas remind me of a Tchaikovsky opera The Queen of Hearts. Power on the palate and superb fresh fruit. Another big hit from this impressive domaine.

Savigny-lès-Beaune "Les Grands Liards" 2006, Patrick Javillier

This is a typical and satisfying Savigny. Cherry, plum, oak. Seems to be a heavy toast on the barrels used in the ageing process although Savigny pinots often carry this "burnt" character perhaps because stone-age man burnt the forest in Savigny and the soil has a deep layer of chestnut and oak cinders. Soft on the palate, this is a feminin Savigny with a delcious flavour of fraises sauvages. Un vin digeste. Very good for a village appellation.

Meursault "Cuvée Tête de Murger" 2007, Patrick Javillier

This Meursault is a blend of wines from the lieux-dits of "Les Casse-Têtes" and "Les Murgers" the former on the gentle incline behind Meursault and the latter flush against the boundary with Monthélie. Neither are close to the 1ers crus of Charmes and Perrières but this wine is priced at the same level as the Meursault-Charmes from the domaine. Plum blossom and cherry boosom, lemon, green melon. Different types of fruit acidity on the palate of clementine and red apple. Rich and pleasurable but I'd need to know more about the vinification, average age of vines and yields to understand why this is worth a 1er cru price.

Meursault "Clos du Cromin" 2007,Patrick Javillier

Like "Les Tillets" this is a lieu-dit in Meursault rather than a premier cru. But the terroir has more clay and its a very different wine reflecting the terroir. Vanilla, white pepper, citrus, clementine, honeysuckle, floral. This is balanced, savoury and stony with a very long finish. Impressive and on reflection more interesting than her cousin "Les Tillets".

Meursault "Les Tillets" 2007, Patrick Javillier

The Javillier domaine is located in Meursault and the wines from this village make up the top flight offerings. Les Tillets is a well-priced lieu-dit with excellent typicity. Tasted at the domaine the aromas are very concentrated, lemon and ripe orange. Grandiose, powerful, erring on big and fleshy. This is a voluptuous "Page 3" wine that is ripe and sweet. Excellent quality fruit with less emphasis on minerality. Bon rapport qualité/prix.

Savigny-lès-Beaune "Les Montchenevoy" 2007, Patrick Javillier

Savigny is better known for its cherry-flavoured pinots than its whites which are similar to the broad and earthy chardonnays from Beaune. This is a splendid example. White cherry flesh, suggestions of mango and lovely rich gala melon. Round, fleshy, gouleyant, with good breadth and oak spice on the finish. Tasted at the domaine this was a hit with the dégustateurs (as shown in photo).

Chassagne-Montrachet "La Goujonne" 2007, Hubert Lamy

Red Chassagne needs to be made carefully since the tannins from the Chassagne terroir can be over-emphatic. This pinot kicks off with roasted apple aromas followed by plums. Good hefty tannins suitably balanced by rich black/red fruits and a finish of plum stones. This Chassagne has that oh-so-Burgundian balance of fresh and ripe berry and stone fruit. Needs time to soften and swell. Photo shows vineyard workers in Chassagne in April 2009.

Saint-Aubin 1er Cru "Clos des Meix" 2008, Hubert Lamy

One of the many premier cru Saint-Aubin whites produced by the domaine, this Clos des Meix perfectly captures the terroir in the Saint-Aubin hill side slightly above Puligny. Mineral, fresh, melon, lemon and white flower aromas. This is a gentle wine, already pleasant to drink with citrus-dominated flavours. Perfect with white fish and ageing potential of 5 years.

Saint-Aubin "La Princée" 2008, Hubert Lamy

Tasted at the domaine, this 2008 Saint-Aubin white had been recently bottled. Hubert Lamy's son, Olivier Lamy has been making the wine for several years and the quality is consistently high. This delicious village-level wine has aromas of lemon, ripe lime and baked apple. Incredibly clean fruit on the palate which produce a delightful tingling sensation and a lovely fresh finish. Good minerality that is complemented by ageing in just 10% new oak barrels. Good Burgundy producers continue to move away from the oak-dominated wines of the 1990s and early 2000s. Bravo! The photo shows a Saint-Aubin vineyard above the village in April 2009 just before budding.

Richebourg 2007, Gros Frère et Soeur

Richebourg can be one of the most sensational pinots. Regal in nature, it makes me dream of Queen Elizabeth II's coronation in 1953: ermine, crimson velvet robes of state, embroidered gold, swearing of oaths, symbols of authority, the paying of homage, fireworks and the crown jewels. What do we get from Gros Frère et Soeur? Strawberry and vanilla. A wine that is hot, rich and alcoholic like a tawny port. I bought some wine in the hope that it may improve slightly over the next 5 years. But the reality is that I recommend everyone to avoid this domaine's wines which are highly inconsistent, dominated by the vinification process (which is not that successful) and not respectful of the terroir. There are dozens of better producers to choose from and life is too short to struggle with muddled Richebourgs and Vosnes!

Grands-Echezeaux 2007, Gros Frère et Soeur

Grands-Echezeaux is a significant step up in price, and sometimes quality, from the "standard" Echezeaux. Not much going on aromatically with this wine, tasted at the domaine, just a few wafts of plum. On the palate, true to the house style, this is an intense, fiery, sharp and linear wine with a mysterious lack of fruit and insufficient tannins to deliver a mouth-filling sensation. Another disappointment for the group of four tasters on the day. It seems that the vinification process at the domaine over-writes most of the characteristics of the terroir.

Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2007, Gros Frère et Soeur

I typically find wines from the Clos de Vougeot that hardest to appreciate when young due to their four-square structure and unrepenting tannins. They can also be the most disappointing wines from a price/quality perspective due to the reknown of the Clos and the premier status of 50% of the vineyards. This Clos de Vougeot didn't tick any of the normal boxes. Aromas of strawberry, oak and vanilla. Very powerful first impact, bright and sharp. Good tannins but there's little extraction or fruit concentration. The finish is like a strawberry schnapps. We were not convinced by this wine and don't see it ageing gracefully.

Vosne-Romanée 2007, Gros Frère et Soeur

Tasted at the domaine in a remarkable subterranean cellar room with a grand piano and night-club style lighting. The wine itself had an equally garish feel. Cherry and plum aromas seemed somehow muddled rather than well-defined. Very soft raspberry fruit on the palate with a linear impact and high acidity. This 2007 Vosne seems to lack breadth. Its a taut wine strangely lacking in tannin but aged in 100% new oak barrels. The tasting party were not thrilled by this Vosne misfit.

Hautes Côtes de Nuits Rouge 2007, Gros Frère et Soeur

The 2007 vintage lacked sunshine resulting in pinots that struggled to fully ripen. In cloudy years it is usually the pinots from the Côte de Nuits and from the higher altitude vineyards that suffer the most unless they have a good southerly exposition. This explains the fresh, high-toned, sharp raspberry, red currant, hawthorn leaf and loganberry aromas and flavours of this wine made from pinot grapes grown on the hills above Vosne. Drinkable but erring on green.

Hautes Côtes de Nuits Blanc 2008, Gros Frère et Soeur

The wines from this famous domaine are made by Bernard Gros in Vosne-Romanée. He is the brother of Anne-François Gros. This 2008 chardonnay from the Hautes Côtes above Vosne is remarkably ripe: floral, melon, apricot and pear aromas wash out of the glass. Fresh and full-flavoured on the palate there isn't much minerality. Could work well with an "eggs and bacon" crêpe complète.

Le Chambertin Grand Cru 2008, Armand Rousseau

The final Armand Rousseau wine tasted from the barrel at the domaine. This Chambertin is an interesting contrast with the Clos de Bèze and the Ruchottes which demonstrates the breadth of thinking at the domaine in terms of vinification and ageing techniques for the wines from different terroirs. The nose is fresher, higher-toned and a little more spicy than the other grands crus. Armand Rousseau has acheived an astounding delineation of flavours on the palate. This Chambertin is concentrated, elegant, spicy and linear. A big contrast to the broader-shouldered Clos de Bèze. Wait until 2018 to serve with a pheasant paté-en-croûte.

Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2008, Armand Rousseau

Tasted from the barrel at the domaine the Clos de Bèze impressed from the start. This wine is a concentrated, classic, luxury pinot. The reticent aromas on the nose suggest the need for long-ageing when compared to the Ruchottes. But on the palate there were remarkable layers and excellent depth of ripe fruit and tannins. Flavours of raspberry and cherry transition into more blue and purples sensations of damsons and plums. Aged in significantly more new oak than the Ruchottes. Will be superb in 2020!

Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru 2008, Armand Rousseau

Another wine tasted from the barrel at the domaine. This Ruchottes blew us away and was voted the best wine tasted during a 4 day trip to 20 domaines in Burgundy. The initial aromas are mind-blowing and thrilling. Pure cassis and dark, wild strawberry with wonderful sweetness. Evolves into ripe plum and blackberry. Words alone can not explain the purity, sexiness and beauty of the aromas. More backwards on the palate but the robust structure and ripe fruit body suggest an excellent future. Without a doubt one of the top Côte-de-Nuits wines of the 2008 vintage.

Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2008, Armand Rousseau

The grands crus from Morey are often bigger and more severe than their neighbours in Gevrey. This Clos de la Roche barrel sample, tasted at the domaine, lives up the its billing. A darker colour than the Gevrey wines initial aromas of vanilla, cherry and strawberry shift gears into black currant. There is a hint of future luxury about this wine, like an Antwerp gemologist cutting and polishing a ruby. The big Clos de la Roche structure comes out on the palate: severe tannins and a granitic texture. In true Armand Rousseau fashion this big wine is aged in just 10-20% new oak. Bravo.

Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 2008, Armand Rousseau

This Charmes offers a very pleasurable experience even when tasted from the barrel. Aromas of red and purple flowers, perfumed rather than fruit-driven. On the palate this Charmes is powerful, wrapped with oak spices, long, not much extraction and made in the legendary traditional Armand Rousseau style. The fruit and quality is certainly present but not immediately leaping out of the glass.

Gevrey-Chambertin 2008, Armand Rousseau

Tasted from the barrel at the domaine in Gevrey this wine will be bottled in March 2010 and available in 2011. We heard that between August 1st and September 11th it rained every other day in Burgundy which means 2008 reds struggled to ripen and some unconscientious producers will have made dilute wines. The Armand Rousseau domaine picked from September 26th after a cooling northern wind had been blowing for 2 weeks after the rain. This Gevrey is fresh, with raspberry and strawberry aromas. On the palate it is linear with apple acidity and is being aged in 2 year old barrels. Certainly this Gevrey will put on fat over time but its not remarkable.

Auxey-Duresses 2007, Domaine Bzikot

Auxey-Duresses is one of the smaller villages of the Côte-de-Beaune nestling in the hills behind Meursault and Monthélie. This Auxey from Bzikot has unfiltered aromas from the Burgundian barnyard, straw and clods of clay. This wine is the result of égrappage total, a macération of 5-10 days depending on the vintage conditions, 15 days of fermentation and then ageing in 50% new oak barrels and 50% with 1 or 2 years. Residual sugar, blackberries, raspberries. This wine is ripe and fresh just as pinot should be. A delicious and simple wine.

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Folatières" 2007, Domaine Bzikot

Another Puligny from the little-known Bzikot stable (there isn't even a brass name plate on the house in the middle of the village). Mineral, closed and stony on the nose. This 1er cru Puligny is aged 1/4 in large volume cuves and 3/4 in oak barriques of which 50% are new. This ageing process preserves natural fruit flavours and also adds a dash of vanillins and structure. Ripe pear, green melon, lemons and cherry juice flavours. This Folatières has superb length. Good quality and appealing price. Photo shows an old chardonnay vine in the Puligny appellation.

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Perrières" 2007, Domaine Bzikot

The Bzikot family moved to Puligny from Poland in the 1930s. Smart move. This well-priced Puligny is mineral, fresh, citrus, clementine with a wrapper of pear aromas. The core of the wine is mineral with a fresh and satisfying texture, good length and tingling acidity. The wine is rounded out by good fruit depth on the finish. An enjoyable Puligny.

Morey-Saint-Denis "En la rue de vergy" 2003, Bruno Clair

My tasting-count for Morey is oddly low. I hope to remedy this lacuna in the near future. In the meantime I almost literally dug up a mixed case of 2003 Bruno Clair last month. Poor cellar management. As I observed back in June 2007 this Morey 2003 needed to be consumed before the end of 2007. Heavy nose of sweet chestnut, prune and black cherry eau de vie. Hints of cherry liqueur chocolate. Dense, heavy, black fruits with a compote finish. Dissipated flab on the palate. As we all know, 2003 was atypical and early drinking. Suggest you disinter any 2003s still lurking in the dark recesses or your Eurocave.

Meursault-Charmes 1er Cru 1966, Potinet-Ampeau

If you are rubbing your eyes trying to focus on the label in the photo let me reassure you... this is a 1966 vintage Meursault. I pulled the cork from this bottle with the "old cork tongs" which avoid crumbling dry cork fragments into the bottle. And the result? Stupendous. The superb, limpid, gold sovereign colour had great depth and clarity. Initial aromas of candied orange, balsa, cedar (dried slightly spicy wood), eau de vie. Really soft and beguiling aromas reminiscent of ancient Carthage as described by Flaubert. Amazingly alive still on the palate with flavours of marinaded plums. Tertiary aromas close out the nose: Christmas cake and white chocolate. This wine is so evolved it has created its own flavours that can not be traced to the grape and the vine. There is still balance, freshness, a hint of golden syrup, autumn Bramley apples just turning. Tasted with a plum tart which was the perfect companion. The only question I am left with: did I open this too early?

Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru "La Dominode" 2004, Bruno Clair

The Bruno Clair domaine, based in the little-known northern Cote-de-Nuits village of Marsannay, has an impressive selection of reds with many grands crus. This Savigny 1er Cru from 2004 confirms my view that even quality conscious producers faced a mammoth task to craft ripe fruit and age-worthy wines from the cloud-blocked 2004 vintage. While cool weather producers elegance in white Burgundy it results in an unpleasant green edge in pinot. This Savigny starts with hawthorn, rhubarb, red currant stalk and tomato stalk. Final aromas are equally disappointing: chalk and walnut dust. Linear, sharp and green with a flavour of unripe black currant. My word, this is even painful with cheese! Need I say it again? Avoid 2004 reds.

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Chenevottes" 2004, Philippe Colin

I'm often surprised at the value on offer from some mid-range producers in Chassagne compared to their more superior cousins in Puligny. This 2004 Chenevottes 1er Cru has a tremendous classic nose of almonds, pain grille, rich lemon pie and lemon rind. Smooth and creamy on the palate it served as a perfect companion to giant prawns pan-fried in olive oil and dusted with a gremolata. Further supports my view that white Burgundy producers could do no wrong in the cool 2004 vintage.

Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune 2004, Domaine de Mercey

This white Hautes Côtes is a pleasant little trouvaille I discovered at my local wine merchant's. Many would say that keeping a white from the high hills above the Côte d'Or is too long. But the combination of good citrus and pear fruit with a backbone of 2004 acidity has resulted in a gentle evolution for this chardonnay. The pear, apple orchard and grassy aromas have a hint of umami-like green tea biscuit. Good depth, chewyness and attack on the palate. Jolly good.