Meursault 1er Cru "Charmes" 2007, Bitouzet-Prieur

M. Bitouzet nous a expliqué qu'il fait beaucoup d'efforts pour que son "Charmes" reste fidèle au terroir. C'est certainement le cas avec ce Meursault-Charmes 2007. Un bouquet de citron mur, noisette et une touche de miel. Dans la bouche, très riche, mineralité et acidité présent mais enveloppés par un fruité concentré. Avec ce Charmes, on est vraiment dans le style d'Emanuelle Béart dans le film "La Belle Noiseuse"! Ce Meursault 1er cru fini sur une longueur remarquable. Vin de luxe pour boire à petites gorgées avec un homard thermidor.

Meursault "Clos du Cromin" 2007, Bitouzet-Prieur

Après une série de Volnay serieux, c'est bien de passer au chardonnay pour raffraichir les papilles! L'équipe de Burgoblog à beaucoup apprecié le typicité de ce Meursault 2007. Même après une seconde quelqu'un a crié: "Ca ne pourrait pas être autre chose qu'un Meursault!" (comme toujours il faut faire la preuve dans une dégustation à l'aveugle...). Miel, poire, tarte tatin, un soupçon de galette des rois, miel de fleurs blanches plutot et de pêche blanche. Vendangé entre le 10eme et le 17eme septembre qui donne beaucoup de fruité et de rondeur. Seulement 20% de fûts neufs. Parfait compagnon pour un nage de coquillages ou quiche aux moules.

Volnay 1er Cru "Cailleret" 2007, Bitouzet-Prieur

Comme les autres Volnay du domaine Bitouzet-Prieur nous avons goûté ce 1er cru "Cailleret" dans la cave à Volnay. Issu d'une toute petite production ce Volnay est vieilli 100% en fûts neufs parce qu'il n'y a qu'un seul barrique. Alors pas de surprise que le nez est aujourd'hui dominé par les notes de vanilles, du toast, de noisette et d'aubépine. Très structuré dans la bouche avec beaucoup de tannins. La comparison avec le Taillepieds me dit que 100% de fûts neufs écrase un peu la personnalité de ce Cailleret. On perde les qualités Volnaysienne dans le bois. En Anglais: "You can't taste the wine for the trees".

Volnay 1er Cru "Clos des Chenes" 2007, Bitouzet-Prieur

En comparison avec les Taillepieds ce premier cru est beacoup plus fermé au nez. C'est plutot un vin de garde qu'un vin de plaisir. Pour donner à ce vin plus de matière le domaine a coupé à la main tous les entre-coeurs sur chaque pied de vigne. Tout ce travail dans les vignes donne un texture riche au palais au base de fruits noires (cassis, mûres, cerises noires). Un bon charpente sans être astringent. Resultat d'un sol plutôt argileux que calcaire. Il faut attendre 3 ans pour boire avec un agneau rôti entier.

Volnay 1er Cru "Les Taillepieds" 2007, Bitouzet-Prieur

Pendant quatre jours de dégustation sur "La Côte" nous avons trouvé ce "Taillepieds" un des meilleurs pinots du millésime 2007. Des arômes très murs de cerises noires, myrtilles et cassis reflètent les racines profondes des vignes dans ce lieu-dit. Le petit pourcentage de futs neufs (25%) donne un soupçon de vanille et un leger élément d'épice. Si ce vin est attirant au nez c'est un Laetitia Casta au palais! Somptueux, soyeux, d'une longueur remarquable, tout à fais delicieux. Il y a du monde au balcon, ajoute un ami Francais. Le nec plus ultra de Volnay!

Volnay 1er Cru "Aussy" 2007, Bitouzet-Prieur

C'etait interessant de trouver un vin "Aussy" (C'est a dire Australien en Anglais) sur la Cote d'or. Nous ne sommes pas tres amis avec les anciens criminels gallois qui jouent au rugby et cricket avec beaucoup de reussite. Il faut dire que ce vin Aussy n'est pas Aussie dans l'autre sens! C'est un vin feminin, charmant, succulent qui se penche sur les petits fruits rouges comme les fraises de bois et framboises. Tres bon equilibre. Sans doute l'age des vignes (en moyenne 60 ans) et le petit rendement (35 hectolitres / hectare) contribuent a la qualite. Nous avons apprecie ce vin sans etre en raptures.

Volnay 2007, Bitouzet-Prieur

J'ai remarque que la moitie des gens qui suivent Burgoblog sont des francophones. Il faut le dire, je ne suis pas completement francophone, etant trois cinquiemes du peuple de Yorkshire et deux cinquiemes ecossais, mais je vais faire des efforts! En juillet je suis alle au domaine Bitouzet-Prieur a Volnay pour gouter les vins du millesime 2007. Ce volnay appellation villages a passer un an en barrique dont 25% futs neufs. Notes florales, griottes, myrtilles. Un vin tres seducteur et veloute meme au nez. Produit d'un pressage doux pendant la vinification. Tres Volnay.

Vosne-Romanée 2001, Jacques Cacheux

I have not yet died of gout! My hand was wavering between a Chinon and this Vosne. The Chinon remains in my cellar. Its a 1989 and has been there for 15 years because I always pick a Burgundy. "Che sera sera", so said Doctor Faustus. This is a thick, dark, velvety red wine which still surprises with some purple tints. What a volley of violets it starts with! Uber-ripe red rhubarb, black cherries, plums soft cinnamon and nutmeg spice. This is a mouth-fillingly rich wine with the full Vosne structure. Excellent balance and a long savoury finish. Perfect with sanglier or chevreuil. "Quel knock!" comme on dit pendant un jeu de cricket.

Meursault "Les Tillets" 2007, Patrick Javillier

This "Tillets" captures the essence of the 2007 vintage: light-coloured, fresh, nervous, citrus-dominated with refreshing minerality on the palate and a dry mineral finish that triggers images of Dorset's jurassic coast and crushed oyster shells. I doubt the 2007s will fatten up as much as the delicious 2006s. This will be an elegant vintage to be imbibed whilst listening to Handel and eating monkfish, halibut or Dover sole. The photo shows mid-morning February sun over Meursault.

Bourgogne blanc "Cuvée Oligocène" 2007, Patrick Javillier

I originally tasted this Cuvée Oligocène Bourgogne blanc at the annual Justerini & Brooks Burgundy tasting in London. This wine demonstrates Patrick Javillier's commitment to terroir since it is a rounder, fruitier tiffin-time type Bourgogne blanc and contrasts with the Cuvée des Forgets. Pleasing to drink now and will develop for another 3 years. A super little wine.

Bourgogne blanc "Cuvée des Forgets" 2007, Patrick Javillier

I often find the "petits vins" from a domaine are the most reliable indicator of quality. A very good Bourgogne blanc is harder to craft than a decent Meursault. This 2007 Bourgogne blanc is citronné, mineral, finely balanced, fresh and nerveux. A very nice wine. Wait until 2011, serve it blind with shellfish and tell everyone its a Chablis 1er cru. Tasted at the domaine.

Chablis 1er Cru "Montée de Tonnerre" 2007, Jean-Paul et Benoît Droin

This is considered to be the the best Chablis premier cru since it is located right next to the grands crus. Like many impressive wines it is troublesome to understand dans son enfance. Wafts of flint (silex) on the nose, inveigling but not distinct. Power, concentration, age-worthy. The matière puts it head and shoulders above the other premiers crus on the power dimension. This 2007 Montée de Tonnerre will reach its apogee in the 2014 to 2020 period.

Chablis 1er Cru "Mont de Milieu" 2007, Jean-Paul et Benoît Droin

This is a remarkable wine! Without the explanation from Benoît Droin (in the photo) it would be inexplicable. According to the master of Chablis terroir the mont de milieu is an appellation characterized by its due-south exposition and only secondarily by its terroir. This explains the obvious apricot and white peach aromas already present in this 2007 Mont de Milieu which has lovely cherry juice, fresh strawberry and ripe pear flavours. Judiciously aged 20 per cent in oak. This premier cru is known as the Condrieu of Chablis for good reason.

Chablis 1er Cru "Montmains" 2007, Jean-Paul et Benoît Droin

If I needed another proof point that the Droin domaine is the guardian of terroir then this wine is it. Grown on a more argileux (clayey) soil the wine is aged in slightly more oak (30 per cent) and is richer, rounder and more fruit-driven than the mineral-dominated premiers crus. Orange and strawberry flavours combine in a wine that can be enjoyed from 2010. Hints of cinnamon, almond and walnut creeping into the aromas. Dramatically different from the other premiers crus! Photo shows an old vine growing on the Chablis hillside on March 30, 2009.

Chablis 1er Cru "Vaillons" 2007, Jean-Paul et Benoît Droin

In case you are not a Chablis expert I have posted a photo of the top quality vineyards. The Vaillons is in the southern patch of premiers crus with a more mineral soil. This Chablis Vaillons is expansive, aged 20 per cent in a mix of old and new oak barrels, orange, cherry juice. Quite a fleshy wine. Closed but promises to be a classic. I recommend drinking from 2013 with shell fish. You will taste the ammonite.

Chablis 1er Cru "Vosgros" 2007, Jean-Paul et Benoît Droin

I always find that Chablis 1er cru is a reliable wine to buy. While Chablis in total covers 3,147 hectares (an area roughly the size of Scotland) the premier cru vineyards make up just 775 hectares (equivalent to the Bois de Boulogne in Paris) which is only four times bigger than the 210 hectares of Puligny. Benoît Droin described this wine as being like a menhir. We're talking ripe lime, cox's apple (tangy and sweeet), trapped minerality, sharpness, concentration, a rapier of lime with a lemon sheath and a hint of petrol. Stunning expression of the terroir.

Chablis 2007, Jean-Marc Brocard

The wines of Jean-Marc Brocard are available in abundance in London, the world centre of wine connoisseurs, so I thought I should visit the domaine in person. What better way to start than with the village appellation? This Chablis 2007 starts with citrus, evidently benchmark stuff from the start, very bright, flint, silex, dry finish, tart and needs another 2 years to fully express itself. One could not ask for more. The photo shows a Chablis village vineyard in late March 2009.

Santenay "Les Hâtes" 2006, René Lequin-Colin

Louis Lequin is a good producer in Santenay with a large portfolio of wines reaching up to Corton-Charlemagne and I presume this Lequin-Colin chap is related. He may well be related to one of the many members of the Colin clan in Chassagne. Although it is Auxey where, dare I say it, in-breeding reaches its apogee. This Santenay blanc from the very good white vintage of 2006 has a rich, satin yellow colour. Butter, cinnamon, cooked oranges and sap on the nose suggesting a moderate dose of new oak or at least 12 months in 1 year old barrels. Something intriguing about the wine from its potency. Quite a blockbuster on the palate - thick lemon, buttered pastry with an well-designed oak vanilla finish. Powerful rather than elegant. More tasting notes to come from this reliable domaine.

Maranges 1er Cru "Clos des Loyères" 2005, Domaine de l'Hermitage de Nantoux

So far my foray into the wines of Maranges suggested the reds are incontrollable tannic monsters. "Once more unto the breach dear friends, once more; or close up the wall with our English dead" so said Henry V (according to Shagsbeard). This Maranges starts well in the glass with a really appealing, thick, red consistent colour. Then defeat. Cherry mixed with twigs, bark and other things rustic. Huge tannins, tangy, astringent another monster. I'm not sure this promotion of Maranges wines had the desired effect! The photo shows the Maranges vineyards from the road to Santenay via which route I beat a hasty retreat to mon cher Puligny.

Chassagne-Montrachet 2006, Domaine de l'Hermitage de Nantoux

The punters at the Maranges "portes ouvertes" tasting day buzzed like pollen-hungry bees away from the Maranges towards the grands vins of the Côte de Beaune. This white Chassagne 2006 has a very pale steely colour with light citrus aromas -- little impact. Creamy, light, very pleasant, smooth, good balance. A wine that is trying (and succeeding) to please without leaving an impression. Would complement grilled sole. Effectively a budget Chassange without the Chassange personality.

Bourgogne blanc 2007, Domaine de l'Hermitage de Nantoux

I was in recovery mode after the double-barrelled Santenay shocker noted below. This Bourgogne blanc didn't have much to say on the nose but a hint of white flowers. Rounded, balanced and friendly on the palate. An ok wine but designed for low budgets rather than upper class taste buds.

Santenay 1er Cru "Grand Clos Rousseau" 2004, Jean-Marc Battault

Not wishing to be unfair after the shocking Santenay blanc I felt obliged to try the red Santenay from the Battault stable. The great philosopher would turn in his grave at the thought that such wines as this are sold under his name. Cherry, twigs and orange aromas struggle out of the glass. This Santenay "premier cru" is astringent, green and really nasty. Grim.

Santenay "Les Bas" 2006, Domaine Battault

This Santenay blanc would convince the world of wine tasters to buy the Guide Hachette. Gooseberry, white currant and lemon pith aromas whilst intriguing in a Côte de Beaune blanc are wrong. This strikingly unripe wine then moves on to willow leaf and silver birch bark (I have a bottle of silver birch wine made in Kent, England. Mais oui, ça existe!). Horribly sharp and short like an assassin's dagger. This wine is a disgrace and a warning.

Maranges 2007, Gérard et Cathérine Duchemin

This Maranges blanc is priced low and just makes the grade as something worth drinking. Fresh lemon, slightly too acidic its a straighforward wine but lacks breadth and length. Like the skinny kid at the swimming pool you don't want to look at because something seems awry. Disappointing when compared with the Maranges blanc from Jean-François Bouthenet.

Santenay 1er Cru "Clos Rousseau" 2005, Jean-François Bouthenet

The photo shows Santenay viewed from Cheilly-lès-Maranges and the tasting notes move from "Clos Roussot" to "Clos Rousseau". The ginger or the philosopher? This premier cru Santenay from the beefy 2005 vintage is bright, red/pink and suprisingly young looking. Immediately releases lovely rich, red berry fruit aromas with a chunk of beetroot lurking in the glass. Refreshing berry flavours, cassis, raspberry that are medium ripe. Quite a fine Santenay with pockets of minerality. Very plesant and very well made. The philosopher wins this contest by three lengths.

Maranges 1er Cru "Clos Roussot" 2005, Jean-François Bouthenet

This Maranges 1er from 2005 still has a monster tannic structure and needs another 3 years in the bottle or else a juicy côte de boeuf. Rich, shiny deep red colour. Black currant aromas with a dash of oak vanillins from 12 months in one year old barrels. The wise will wait for the wine to rebalance on the black fruits but there is always the lingering question: will the stroppy teenager come good?

Hautes-Côtes-de-Beaune 2007, Jean-François Bouthenet

This red Hautes-Côtes-de-Beaune 2007 kicks off with a refreshing, reflective red colour. Its creamy with strawberries, a soft nose with a hint of vanilla. As one would expect from these higher altitude vineyards there is a hint of astringency on the palate but the light cherry fruit covers over the cracks. A perfectly decent specimen from this craven high hill species.

Maranges "Sur le Chêne" 2007, Jean-François Bouthenet

Maranges is the virtually unknown recent arrival to the list of Côte de Beaune appellations and is actually in the Saone-et-Loire départment. Anyway, there it is tucked down next to Santenay before you reach the badlands of the Côte chalo***ise which I am not permitted to imbibe. This Maranges blanc (a rarity in the pinot-dominated appellation) is a real crowd-pleaser. Creamy, soft lemon, reminiscent of orange blossom on the road to Saint-Paul de Vence. Rich, tasty, pure fruits, pear, ripe apple and lemon. Aged in one year old cuves. A really tasty little bargain.

Hautes-Côtes-de-Beaune 2007, Jean-François Bouthenet

Left twiddling my thumbs in Puligny over the Easter break I noted the "portes ouvertes" tasting weekend in Cheilly-lès-Maranges. One 8 mile cycle ride later I hit the Jean-François Bouthenet stand. What a find! Friendly lemon aromas, rounded citrus fruit, white juice from red currants, fresh, simple good length, a nice tangy finish. In sum the perfect wine to drink with good friends.

Saint-Romain 2006, Jacques Bavard

Sur la langue, le vin parle. On pourrait aussi dire: sur la langue, le vin bavarde. This 2006 Saint-Romain from the hitherto unknown domaine Bavard located in Puligny turned out to be a diamond in the rough. Rich brassy colour and very clear. Super aromas of white peach, soft dried apricot, white mountain honey, acacia. A soft textured wine. very much on the fruit, a dry slightly mineral finish with a touch of walnut. Already flattering, juicy, white asparagus. Perfect for the début de repas. A Saint-Romain that is un peu pulignifié. Does anyone know anything about the mysterious Jacques Bavard? Labivin provides the answer. Jacques Bavard was previously the owner of « Au bourguignon du Marais » in Paris and started making wine (again) in 2004. They have 1.5 hectares and act as a negociant for another 1.5 hectares. I wish Jacques and his wife Christine good luck with the new enterprise!

Saint-Véran "Les Mûres" 2001, Roger Lassarat

This 2001 Sain-Véran from the Lassarat domaine possesses a medium gold colour with leggy thickness. Initial aromas of lanolin, cream and violin bow resin cover the remaining hints of yellow peach. Rounded, glossy, superb ripe citrus fruits accompanied by a soft lemony freshness and a good dry finish. An excellent wine that could be confused with a light Corton-Charlemagne. Still has 2 years of evolution left!

Saint-Véran "Les Cras" 2006, Roger Lassarat

More evidence that Saint-Véran, when made by conscientious producers, can be much more than a light, fruity version of Pouilly. This 2006 Saint-Véran has a smoky, flinty, limestone driven nose. Power and concentration on the palate. Wrapped up like a flower bud today on the nose. The length and structure on the palate point to an elegant future from 2011 when the wine will de-veil.

Saint-Véran "Les Mûres" 2006, Roger Lassarat

In the flight of Lassarat wines tasted this stood out as the quality performer. Pear, white peach, green melon aromas with real clarity. A glossy texture from the grapes' natural sugars, great acidity but rounded by the concentrated glycerol and fruit flavours. Classic orange pith finish with a mineral line coming through. The chardonnay grapes grow on the high quality limestone terroir of Saint-Véran hence the excellent quality.

Pouilly-Fuissé "Clos du Martelet" 2006, Roger Lassarat

Another Pouilly from the Roger Lassarat domaine. This 2006 has vibrant citrus aromas with a crème de fleurette edge. Mineral and citrus flavours combine with good acidity to complete a fresh, racy and dry wine which would be a tremendous companion for oysters. Will add fat on the palate and develop tertiary aromas over the next 3 years. Splendid.

Pouilly-Fuissé "Terroir de Vergisson" 2006, Roger Lassarat

For those of you who have ventured down to the Mâconnais you will find a tremendous landscape of deep rolling hills with limestone cliffs. The most impressive are the rocks of Vergisson and Solutré. This Pouilly, from the Vergisson terroir, captures the essence of this region: lovely balance, fresh stone fruits, subtle, white peach and ripe pear aromas. This wine will age gracefully like the English ballerina Darcy Bussell. Vinification was 2/3 oak (not all new) and 1/3 in stainless steel cuves which preserves the fruit flavours.

Pouilly-Fuissé "Cuvée R" 2005, Roger Lassarat

This was a one-off cuvée -- an experiment vinified in 100 per cent new oak. For Americans this would be a big success but for those in search of unique personality in their wines rather than an overwhelming sensation of fruit, oak and alcohol this cuvée was not a good idea! (Comments on that generalization most welcome - ed.) Its a very rich wine, vanilla fudge aromas, tarte aux cérises, crème anglaise. Heavy, rich, bourgeois. None of the fresh peach and melon fruit that distinguishes Pouilly from Napa. But for some people this would be the crowning glory.

Saint-Véran "Les Mûres" 2005, Roger Lassarat

Another wine tasted at the domaine. Grown on a "terroir argilo-calcaire" (calcareous clay) is was intrigued that Roger Lassarat prices his Saint-Véran slightly higher than his Pouilly. This Saint-Véran is aged 100 per cent in oak barrels of which 25 per cent is new oak adding more structure and flavour. This wine makes a good impression on the palate, chewy acidity, power, oak structure and power at the finish. Very well made.

Pouilly-Fuissé "Cuvée des Murgers" 2005, Roger Lassarat

Tasted at the domaine in April 2009 this fresh, reflective Pouilly-Fuissé has peach, almond, hazelnut, pastry and orange aromas. Rounded fruit on the palate, a hot finish and trés flatteur on the palate. A soft impression and needs 2 more years to open. An enjoyable wine.

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Macherelles" 2002, Hubert Lamy

The 2002 vintage turned out to be a fleshy year without fine minerality or lively acidity. Only the top producers such as the 2002 Puligny from Louis Carillion attained real elegance. This is a rich wine with lemon, oak vanillins, Cox's apple and tangerine marmalade. A savoury wine with vanilla flavours which ends on a slightly flat note due to the low acidity. Ideal for poulet de Bresse in cream or lambs brain with cream and cornichons. Worth comparing with the Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru "Clos de la Chateniere" 2002, the Saint-Aubin 1er Cru "Les Murgers Des Dents De Chien" 2002 and the Chassagne-Montrachet "Les Voillenots" 2002 from Maroslavac-Leger.