Wednesday, October 15, 2014

Bourgogne Blanc 2009, Bruno Colin

People who work in financial markets seek alpha, wine-tasters seek declassified white Burgundy sold at appetizingly low prices in the guise of Bourgogne Blanc. This bouteille from Bruno Colin (part of the Colin clan in Chassagne goes some way to meeting my wish but not close to the Oligocene from Javillier. This is a well-evolved bourgogne blanc, it has that clarity and freshness of pear juice that I find most often in Saint-Aubin, still on the fruit on the nose and no hint of complexity due to the ripeness of the vintage (which idiots still think 2009 is a majestic white burgundy vintage?). Very pleasant to drink, no edges, full, gouleyant, an apple and pear lozenge on the finish. A hint of marzipan on the final nose and a touch of hay which made me think of the wonderful white horse ridden by Bruno. Enjoyable for sure and good value. Scores 22/30 for a bourgogne blanc. btw look at the dock on that animal!

Tuesday, October 14, 2014

Chassagne-Montrachet "Les Chaumes" 2012, Morey Coffinet

For some bizarre reason I have never tasted at Domaine Morey Coffinet which is located in the fair village of Chassagne. Given the attratctive portfolio of whites and decent number of reds they offer this omission must soon be corrected. This Chassagne rouge is a good example of the punchy 2012 vintage. Lovely full cherry colour, the nose is slow to open up, starting on floral notes, and then proffers cranberry, raspberry and ripe red currant. After some evolution there is a touch of menthol. Definitely needed to be aerated to tell its story. Solid Chassagne rouge structure on the palate with equal doses of ripe berry fruit, tangy orange sanguine acidity and chewy (for a pinot!) tannins. This is an elegant wine for a Chassagne A/C, finely wrought and wonderfully balanced. I am sure will be tremendous on 4 years time with pigeon roti or a mousse de canard. Scores 26/30 for a Chassagne rouge. 

Sunday, October 12, 2014

Savigny-les-Beaune "Dessus les Vermots" 2010, Domaine de la Douaix

The back label tells me that Domaine de la Douaix was founded by Belgians called Moustie in 2006. Ripe cherry nose, verging on cassis coulis, jammy. Full on fruit. Pleasant ripe cherry, ripe plum and black berry fruit. Some good fruit acidity buzz on the finish. So ripe it makes one smile, like a brunette colleague you don't know at work showing a little too much cleavage. As one plunges in, there is vanilla and raspberry. Good structure despite the "push up" style on the nose, ripe tannins and a bonne charpente. Overall, a very enjoyable Savigny. Honest and fruity! Scores 25/30 for a Savigny A/C. Allez les Belges! 

Friday, October 10, 2014

Saint-Veran "Les Rochats" 2011, Domaine de la Croix Senaillet

I have always had a penchant for Saint-Veran wines after visting the region in the early 1990s when the Maconnais was emerging from the dark ages. This 2011, produced by Richard and Stephane Martin, has a soft orange and clemetine nose with a hint of honeydew melon. It is subtle, too subtle. Good ripe citrus fruit on the palate. A fresh finish on the back of the tongue. Pleasant, easy-drinking and faultless, lacks edge. Scores 21/30 for a Saint-Veran. 

Monday, October 06, 2014

Gevrey-Chambertin "Clos Prieur" 2013, Frederic Esmonin

This could well be the first bottle I have tasted from this domaine which is based in Gevrey. It appears to be one of those Grade B domaines, which often appear in wine merchants but rarely make it into the major Burgundy books. Admittedly this could be an act of infanticide but its worth tasting the new vintage early and of course this is very early to be buying 2013 in the US in October. The wine announces itself with a good red/plum purple colour; nose is fairly open on red cherry, licorice, rose hip. Interesting yet lacking in potency. Hints of briar and rhubarb once it evolves. Taut and tangy on the palate, its lively but tastes a tad astringent like drinking liquidized bramble leaves. Will it fill out in 3 years time? "Peut etre" as Francois Bertheau would say, with a wink of his eye. At present though I will err on the side of not being impressed. Scores 19/30 for a Gevrey A/C. 

Monday, August 18, 2014

Chassagne-Montrachet Vieille Vigne 2009, Jean-Charles Fagot

Earthy and brambley nose with medium intensity. Blood orange, fresh, tannin-laced. Tastes a tad over-oaked. Not a lot of oomph. Baking tray, limestone gratings and dried mussel shell. Surprisingly astringent. Not showing its full potential now, I hope it improves because a Cote de Beaune 2009 red should be rich, plump and showy like a Venezuelan beauty queen. Scores 21/30 for a Chassagne.  

Auxey-Duresses 2007, Henri Darnat

When I last tasted this wine in August 2010 I noted that it was 'more Socrates than Rabelais'. But now, the cheeky side of this wine is coming to the fore although not with a Gargantuan structure. Lovely mature white Burgundy nose of truffle, buttered leeks, warm hay and almonds. Very fine, fancy even. This Auxey-Duresses, once linear and tight, has really filled out on the palate. Savoury, nutty and succulent. Flavours stroke and linger on the cheeks. This is wonderful old school Burgundy which many would enjoy but few would truely understand. Scores 27/30 for an Auxey-Duresses. Drinking now for another 2 years and I am glad I still have a small stock left! As I taste deeper into the bottle this merits 29/30. Stunning.   

Thursday, July 24, 2014

Eola-Amity Hills 2012, Montebruno

Wikipedia informs us that "The Eola-Amity Hills AVA is an American Viticultural Area located in Polk County and Yamhill County, Oregon. It is entirely contained within the Willamette Valley AVA, and stretches from the city of Amity in the north to Salem in the south." So transferring this to Burgundy-speak the appellation is "Eola-Amity Hills" in the region of the Willamette Valley (roughly equivalent to the Cote d'Or). The wine has a rich dark red colour, somewhat reminiscent of Peterhouse Red. A vibrant nose of blueberries, black currants and huckleberries with background green pepper. Decent fruit breadth, still on the blacks and blues with a savoury touch, a pleasant feature for an Oregon pinot which I find can often be too jammy. Well-balanced and flavourful this Eola-Amity Hills has good complexity on the nose and lacks only more length and interest on the palate. Scores 24/30 for an Eola-Amity Hills.

Monday, July 21, 2014

Saint-Romain 2010, Olivier Leflaive

I have been stung into action by soft criticism from Ammar Al Gevrey relating to the complete lack of tasting notes since late 2013! I am afraid that having moved to Manhattan and been separated from my Burgundy cellar I have lost the glugging habit. Good for the health, bad for the temperament. This Saint-Romain from the successful 2010 vintage has a light, steely colour. I was not impressed to see a plastic cork on this wine having had some bad experiences with Capitain-Gagnerot wines enclosed with the same. An initial whiff of flint stone gives way to citrus and Cox's apple. The flint evolves into a chalky note. The aromatic profile is flat. Medium plus acidity, dry and linear. This Saint-Romain is taut, tangy and short like a Chinese gymnast. Too evocative of celery and apple to be considered a flag bearer for the appellation and not on a par with the likes of "Fat" Alain Gras. Serve with caesar salad, walnuts or leek fritters. Scores 21/30 for the Saint-Romain appellation.

Saturday, December 21, 2013

Willamette Valley "Thea's Select" 2011, Lemelson Vineyards

I confess I bought this bottle because I really like the label which shows a bucolic vineyard scene with hints of van Gogh. Served in a solid bottle this pinot noir from the reliable Willamette Valley has a really engaging blueberry, cinnamon and plum nose. Sweet without being jammy, the spices beautifully complement the wild berry fruits. Lovely. Lively, woodland berry flavours continue on the palate. The focus on the freshness has been achieved with a reduction in concentration but this is overall a pleasant, enticing and very enjoyable wine. Happily comes in at just 13% alcohol which preserves the elegance of the pinot noir. Scores 23/30 for a Willamette Valley. 

Tuesday, December 17, 2013

Auxey-Duresses Premier Cru " " 2011, Comte Armand

This is a blended premier cru and does not therefore merit a lieu-dit name. The hamlet of Auxey is tucked behind Meursault en route to Saint-Romain -- a great cycling valley if you are tempted. And the beauty of the tributary valley translates into an incredibly pretty, gamine nose. Violets, blueberries, vanilla, so coquette! There is evolution to the comingled blackberry and apple juice. Surprisingly linear, fresh and raspberry-driven on the palate with a strong dose of blood orange. Elegance requires substance so I would call this willowy and a touch severe. To be retasted in 3 years when it may have added weight. Scores 21/30 for an Auxey premier cru. Could reach 26/30 in the future but 2011 is a light vintage my friends.  

Monday, September 09, 2013

Oregon "Love Oregon" Pinot Noir 2010, R Stuart & Co

As I learn the ropes of wine-buying in the US I am putting to one side my preference for classic labels and terroir-only appellations. Here is the evidence a bottle of  "Love, Oregon" 2010 pinot noir. "Pathetic" as the sage of Walden Tom Cobbold would say. This pinot noir from R Stuart & Co in Oregon has a plesant nose of blueberry, cooked rhubarb and strawberry. There is faint background plum. A pleasant bouquet. Ignoring the slight fizz in the glass this wine has good linearity, freshness and raspberry fruit. The structure is dainty. Simple and not too fruity. Dare I say that this is a pinot noir aperitif? Scores 20/30 for an Oregon pinot noir. 

Saturday, August 10, 2013

Bourgogne Blanc "Cuvée Oligocène" 2010, Patrick Javillier

This white Burgundy has a lovely nose dominated by orange blossom and orange sponge cake. Here is sweetness, there is freshness. A touch of garden mint, lemon and marzipan. Beautiful poise on the nose. Full citrus flavours, satisfying breadth and an enlivening pithy finish. Perfectly constructed. Could age gracefully for another 3-5 years. Scores 27-28/30 for a Bourgogne blanc. 

Thursday, August 08, 2013

Chassagne-Montrachet 2008, Bachelet-Ramonet

In recent years 2008 has emerged as one of the superior vintages for chardonnay from the Côte d'Or. It has a lovely combination of freshness, ripe stone fruit flavours and an edge of complexity. This Chassagne 2008 from Domaine Bachelet-Ramonet tries to squeeze too much out of this attractive millésime, I asssume due to yields being slightly higher than would be preferred for top quality. The nose of orange and asparagus with a touch of almond is strangely quiet, like a muted violin. Not something one expects on a wine with 5 years. Pleasant orange and apple fruit on the palate with good initial impact but no length to speak of. Not a stylish wine and underperforms for the 2008 vintage. Unexciting. Inexpensive though compared to the top 20 Chassagne producers. Scores 19-21/30 for a Chassagne.

Sunday, August 04, 2013

Santenay 1er Cru "Les Gravières" 2007, Bernard Morey

We visited this domaine, located in the vineyards between Chassagne and Santenay in July 2009. There had been some confusion as to whether the tasting was with Benard Moreau or Bernard Morey. A frequent problem on Burgundy tasting tours for people with brains addled by pinot. I remember the wines being fruit-driven, round and friendly. This Santenay premier cru is on the mid-to-lower slope on the northern side of the village near Chassagne. There is cherry here, some cassis, good berry ripeness, shoe polish (tan), damp straw, quail droppings and freshly-rained on gravel. Tasty cherry and plum fruit with a lacing of tart cassis. This Santenay does a good job of capturing the freshness of the 2007 vintage and has a refreshing length. An all round good egg. Impresses more than the wines tried at the domaine. Scores 24-25/30 for a Santenay premier cru. Photo shows the Gravieres vineyard falling away from the Santenay windmill. 

Friday, August 02, 2013

Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2008, Patrick Javillier

Tasted on a very warm evening in the rather too warm dining room of L'Aventure off the Abbey Road in London this Corton-Charlemagne was very pleasing to drink although suffered from premature oxidation in both colour and aroma. Very open on the nose, the Bourgoblog team identified marzipan, almonds, white peach, orange blossom and a hint of madeira. Much fresher on the palate than the slightly premoxy nose would suggest, we enjoyed the pear and peach flavours which had depth and expressed a sense of luxe. More richesse than finesse. This Javillier offering scores 22-24/30 for a Corton-Charlemagne. We imagine the premox is the result of poor cellaring.

Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 2008, Domaine Arlaud

The Bourgoblog team visited the hidden gem of north west London's restaurant scene, L'Aventure, as part of a bottle distribution evening. Whilst the restaurant's wine list is not large it does burst with gems of wines. This Charmes-Chambertin 2008 from the Domaine Arlaud turned out to be such a fine specimen that we ordered a second cheese course as an excuse for a second bottle. Why is this wine spectacular? It has an incredible, enthralling multi-layered nose that is tempting and beguiling. There is perfume, vanilla, pomegranate, rye bread, bramble and raspberry. This is a pinot nose which is philosophical and deep. Offers so much now, and promises even more in the future. This 2008 grand cru is velvety, lively, fresh and concentrated on the palate. It is obviously a grand cru wine with thoroughbred breeding. This Charmes-Chambertin evolved over two hours and retained its character in full. Perfect pinot, as one of the tasters said. Scores 26-28/30 for a Gevrey grand cru.

Tuesday, July 30, 2013

Saint-Véran 2011, Thibert Père & Fils

By the standards of the Côte d'Or (against which all vineyards must be measured) the Saint-Véran appellation is a giant sea of vines: 645 hectares. This compares with just 394 hectares for Meursault. The maximum permissible yield in Saint-Véran is 55 hectoliters per hectare versus 45 hectoliters for white wine on the Côte d'Or. What do all these numbers add up to? Vineyard exposition and yield management have a huge impact on quality in Saint-Véran. This 2011 from Domaine Thibert is cool and lacking in kick on the nose, slight hints of cucumber and lemon. This is partly due to its youth. Good texture, lively citrus and pear fruit on the palate. Narrow yet with length. This could evolve into something interesting with more weight. Requires at least 2 years to open up. Scores 19-23 / 30 for a Saint-Véran.

Monday, July 29, 2013

Fixin "Les Herbues" 2009, Michel Defrance

Fixin is a one of the small, unsung villages of the Côte d'Or located to the north of big brother Gevrey-Chambertin. One assumes the village does not consider it has a top tier lieu dit since it has not taken the double-barreled rebranding route like so many of its Côte de Nuits cousins. This Fixin from the rich 2009 vintage has a ripe earthy nose of cherry, lamb chops, aniseed, dried thyme and mint tea. Chewy plum fruit on the palate with breadth but no length to speak of. Rustic charm with a loofa-like texture - this wine is true to the terroir and is not jumped up. Scores 20-22/30 for a Fixin. Photo shows Fixin in the distance in July 2011.

Pierre & Jean, Chagny

Sometimes a new restaurant gets everything right -- but rarely. I am delighted to say that Pierre & Jean, the bistrot across the road from its illustrious parent Maison Lameloise, is one of those rare examples. We visited Pierre & Jean on the recommendation of at least five different vignerons in Meursault and Puligny. We opted for the phenonmenallly good value weekday lunch menu for 29 euro. After trying the reviving house aperitif we moved onto the pâté en croûte tradition which redefined what can be a tired dish with the gelée de Porto et Madère. We appreciated the genuinely Burgundian portion (but regretted it later). The carpaccio de veau, vinaigrette aux câpres capron avec parmesan was substantial and interesting. Not on a par with the marvellous pâté en croûte though. Since this was a lunch we both ordered fish: one filet de dorade and the other the merlu en croûte de riz soufflé, bouillon de crevettes grises à la citronnelle. As often happens with the best French restaurants, it is the accompanying ingredients that star not the focus of the dish. The bouillon de crevettes was intense and spicy. Meanwhile the gnocchis de pommes de terre à l’estragon were consumed without pause by a non-potato eater and the caviar d’aubergine stretched the potential of this grand vegetable with the waiter claiming it was nothing but an overn-roasted aubergine with salt and pepper. To finish the sorbets of cassis and framboise as well as a caramel ice cream were divinely cooling on a very hot summer day. The only semi-success was the melon and crème citron sur un biscuit pain de Gênes. We'd had superior melon the day before from the Chalon-sur-Saone market and the biscuit was chewy. Throw in a half bottle of Saint-Romain and a bottle of the much-improved (less salty) Badoit and one can hardly believe it is legally possible to serve such sublime food for 45 euro a head with impeccable service. Just one problem, the wine list is exceptionally short for such a fine restaurant. The door is half-ajar to paying a droit de bouchon but the ten or so Côte Chalonnaise wines and a smattering of Côte d'Or wines do not cut the mustard.