One can judge a vintage and a producer by the quality of the most simple wine they produce. Marc Morey's 2004 white Burgundy scores on both accounts. This a little gem of a wine with a bright hay colour, an appealing citrus vanilla nose, and a good balance of fruit, acidity and just a little oak tannin on the arriere bouche. Is it complex? No. Is it delicious? Yes. And yet more proof that 2004 is a fine vintage for white Burgundy. 2004 is reminiscent of 2001 and 1992 which also had a nervous delicatesse with perfect balance. Hooray for Marc Morey!