Wednesday, September 26, 2007

Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2002, Jean-Philippe Marchand

Gevrey is one of the few appellations where the village level wines have the potential to offer genuine complexity and evolution in the bottle. "Potential" is the key word here because this Gevrey falls short of the mark. The colour is good, the aromas correct if a little rhubarby, and it is eminently drinkable yet there is none of the exciting spice and gladiatorial structure that is possible. The wine: bright cherry, red currant stalk and rhubarb aromas combined with medium slightly astringent and chalky tannins and medium to light fruit. And to boot a vieilles vignes should offer riper and more concentrated black berry fruits. Just a few clicks up in quality and this could be much more exciting and fly the flag for Gevrey. As it stands this is decent quaffing wine.

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