Chassagne-Montrachet "La Goujonne" 2003, Hubert Lamy

The long nights of winter in London beckon so a 2003 Chassagne to warm the cockles seems appropriate. The warmth starts with the thick dark cherry colour and an expansive over-ripe, jammy, fruit nose. Brings out damsons, black cherry and blackberry then hits rye bread and violets. It is incredibly sweet for a Cote de Beaune. Very broad ripe fruit with impact on the mid-palate and a hot finish. Elements of raisin and madeira creeping into the mix. Not much length due to low acidity and soft tannins. At its apogee now and an interesting contrast to the Echezeaux Grand Cru 2003 from Mongeard-Mugneret which still had some evolution potential. I hope my lone reader in the United Arab Emirates isn't sitting on a stockpile of 2003s. Are you?

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