Sunday, October 21, 2007

Vosne-Romanee 2003, Jacques Cacheux

Jacques Cacheux is a typical Burgundian - slow to show his hand but mighty welcoming once he warms to you. I've been buying direct from the domaine for almost 10 years. He practices lutte raisonnee in the vineyard and keeps his own counsel in terms of preferred style. Its a small family-owned domaine with virtually all the vineyards in the appellation of Vosne. In addition to Echezeaux he also has a small parcel of vines in La Croix Rameau which is effectively a sub-division of Romanee St Vivant.

This Vosne is thick red, viscous, with some large flakes of non-cork sediment. The initial nose is surprising - beetroot, red currant and even ripe rhubarb. Not the super-ripe red and black fruits one expects from a 2003. Aromas moved onto black currant leaf, juicy fruit gum and blood orange. A confusing bouquet. On the palate shrivelled berry fruit, dry, wide impact, not much depth or length. Drinkable but probably affected by a slightly imperfect cork. Requires retasting.

3 comments:

  1. Anonymous1:14 PM

    That "juicy fruit gum" note is what makes so many California pinots undrinkable.

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  2. Interesting point because 2003 was the only year when Burgundy was hot enough to be comparable with California. Its as if the winemaker has tried to suppress the ripeness and force the wine to retain its normal red berry aromas. I'll retaste since it may have been an oxidization problem.

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  3. Richard12:17 AM

    I remember we went to Jacque Cacheux together, his wines were great even though I don't understand a word of french. :)

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