Vosne-Romanee 2002, Alex Gambal

The domaine was founded in the mid-1990s by American Alex Gambal and is a negociant business based in Beaune. So how good is American-made Burgundy? The colour is a medium depth cherry red with hints of age. Faint aromas, fairly closed still, nose is distant. Becomes fragrant high-toned typical Burgundy. Touches of cinnamon, mint and Japanese trefoil all being sweet herbs. Very smooth, crushed berry fruit, savoury and fine. This Vosne is more about finesse than impact and is similar in style to a Chambolle. It also raises the question of whether 2002s will ever fully open. Rather like 1996s that never shed their acidity it seems that the backward 2002s may always be backwards. Tasting contributions from maestro Yahui and contributor Jezza.

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