"Le Bâtard" is of course one of the top white Burgundies, third in line after Le Montrachet and Chevalier. But does scarcity imply remarkable quality? To some extent with this offering from Jean-Noël Gagnard. The nose is initially closed, unsuprising given the youth of the wine, and then launches a volley of intense citrus. In the mouth there is huge concentration of pear, red apple flesh and green melon. Good structure, length and persistence. Nothing fascinating at the moment but reaches the bar.