Wednesday, January 12, 2011

Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2009, François Lamarche

Domaine Lamarche produces just 7,000 bottles of the Clos de Vougeot from 30 year old vines. Among all grands crus this one has the most mixed reputation among the Burgundy cognoscenti and a big following among the cognotmuchscenti. Most likely the same people who think Mouton-Rothschild is a genuine competitor to Lafite or even Pichon. Rant over, the nose is medicinal, savoury, less obviously fruity. Structure, oak, savoury. The usual crenellated Clos de Vougeot structure from start to finish. Like a Bandol keep it for 10 years and pray it evolves into a friendly monster. This Clos de Vougeot 2009 is the same price as the Echezeaux 2009 but is not now nor ever will be as enjoyable.

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