Saturday, May 07, 2011
Volnay 1er Cru "Les Santenots" 2008, Domaine des Comtes Lafon
Many wine-makers on the Côte d'Or say that 2008 will be an excellent vin de garde whereas 2009 is a media sensation that will drink very well when young but will lack complexity when mature. The contrast between the Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay-Santenots 2009 and this 2008 is a great example to study. Due to the cool weather in 2008 and then hail the yield was only about 15 hectolitres per hectare which is about 35% of the 2009 yields. The nose is fairly closed, spicy, cloves. There are chewy tannins, ripe red currant. The wine is savoury and chalky. This Volnay-Santenots 2008 needs minimum 3 years to develop, integrate and open up. Drink 2009s, 2006s and 2007s before 2008s. Like 1989 and 2000, it seems likely that 2008 will end up being a connaisseurs' vintage -- complex and requiring analysis to appreciate.