Bonnes Mares 2009, Bruno Clair

As we entered the third hour of a cellar tasting with Philippe Brun at Domaine Bruno Clair the quality of insight into the wines reached a crescendo. The discussion centred around the existence of "des fruits bleus" which Phillipe told us didn't make sense in French. "Fruits rouges and fruits noirs" are ok, but not "fruits bleus". We then ended discussing whether we could see "les petits hommes bleus dans la cave" as a result of tasting too many wines from the barrel. We finally spotted some smurfs, or as they are called in French, les Schtroumpfs. Do not myrtilles (blue berries) look blue? This Bonnes Mares 2009, tasted in April 2011, is a floral letter delivered in a vanilla and strawberry envelope. Tart initially, it becomes more charming, elegant, feminin. A truly gorgeous wine, incredible violet aromas leap out of the glass after a few minutes, combined with blue berry flavours. A velvety style supported by a good structured finish at the end. A push-up. Another Absolutely Splendid wine from the domaine which will offer much pleasure over the next 10 years. Possibly not much longer.