Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Morgeots" 1999, Louis Lequin

Not for a long time have I tasted chez Louis Lequin even though his wines have always impressed and are priced at reasonable rates. Although not regarded by Burgundy critics as a top domaine, my experience of the wines and the man suggests immense stature. One feels feeble and obscured by the wine-maker's presence. This Chassagne, carrying 13 years of evolution, was slow to open then pushed out hints of apricot, dried orange, late-summer honeysuckle, gentle and subtle. Once consumed there is still good apricot fruit, mid weight, some pear, excellent balance a chalky finish. Holding up very well... like this medieval tower at the Château de Coraboeuf.

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