Meursault 1er Cru "Charmes" 2011, Comtes Lafon

The Comtes Lafon vines are in the Charmes du Dessus parcel which is generally considered to be the superior terroir -- but of course it all depends on your vineyard management. Look at the stunning quality of the Bourgogne Blanc Cuvée Oligocène from Patrick Javillier. The domaine owns a whopping 1 hectare and 71 ares (ie 71% of a hectare) which is tiny by Bordeaux standards but huge for one of the Côte d'Or's best vineyards. This Meursault-Charmes hits the heights of white Burgundy, it is perfumed (brings up images of Chanel adverts through the years), there is a very fine texture, stunning fruit quality which caresses the palate as if you are at a taste bud massage parlour. A glorious blend of lemon, pear and apple flavours with a long, fresh and mineral finish. This Meursault-Charmes is everything you can hope for from the appellation and has at least 10 years of ageing potential. Scores 27-28/30 for a Meursault premier cru -- held back by the limitations of the vintage from a higher score.