Wednesday, June 24, 2015

Ladoix 2010, Domaine d'Ardhuy

I have often thought this domaine's name would work better as a whisky distiller... 14 year old Ardhuy Single Malt. In fact the Domaine d'Ardhuy has an impressive range of grands crus (6) and premiers crus (12) not to mention the villages appellations (14). On closer inspection these are lesser grands crus and lesser premiers crus, but it is an expansive domaine. Procured from Astor Wines, one of the larger wine merchants in the city of New York, this wine was a major disappointment. One does not expect a 5 year old white Burgundy to have the dark yellow nay orangey colour of a young Barsac. But so it is with this wine. Whilst the nose is interesting, starting on yeasty/leesy aromas then moving on to almonds, hay and finally cantaloupe (the dominant aroma) and dried mango; it is not in the pocket of typical white Burgundy. More like Hunter Valley semillon of the 1990s. The nose dies after 10 minutes on an unfortunate note of tinned sweetcorn. Vulgar stuff indeed. Imbibed, the immediate impression is of a cheap white port which combines dried pineapple and sherry. The texture is masculine, heavy and somehow combines surmaturite with a sour finish. Unlike Cinderella, this wine did not make it back home before midnight and is a monstrous mixture of pumpkin juice and sherry. This bottle is not off. It is simply a badly made wine. Scores 7/30 for a Ladoix. Why the poor showing? Likely harvested too late (acidity is sorely lacking). Terroir is probably not suited to chardonnay (vegetal flavours) and should be planted in pinot. Bad wine making. A village appellation from a good producer should not be dead at the age of five! Especially in a good vintage like 2010. Shocker.  

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