Morey-Saint-Denis "Clos de la Bidaude" Monopole 2012, Robert Gibourg

This is a small domaine in Morey which flies under the radar. Clos de la Bidaude is a fascinating micro-climate. The vineyard is at 340 metres on a slope that faces East-North-East, its a 1 hectare monopoly lieu-dit and is positioned just above the Clos des Lambrays grands crus. In fact, the current vineyard had been left "en friche" (left fallow) until it was replanted until 1993. At the youngish vines and exposition are appropriately represented in the wine: high-toned, spicy, licorice root. Evolves to plum, white pepper, orange rind and loganberry. Lovely balance, fresh, taut. I imagine this wine is problematic in cool years and wonderfully graceful in riper years when the vines in the valley err on flabby. This is so fine it is tough to place as a Morey. Scores 22/40 for a Morey-Saint-Denis.