Saint-Aubin "Les Castets" 2007, Hubert Lamy

The 2007 vintage was similar to 2011. A drab, damp summer followed an early and very warm spring. This tends to give wines an attractive bouquet, good acidity but a lack of body and fruit ripeness on the palate. Keeping a bottle of village quality Saint-Aubin for ten years in a vintage like 2007 is potentially risky, even from a very good producer. This 2007 Saint-Aubin has a thick ruby colour with a brown suede rim. It's smoky, with notes of dried fig, brambles and cloves. Wine-soaked peppercorns and a trace of star anise. A bonfire night wine with hints of gunpowder, smoke, leather. Tangy bramble fruit on the palate. As one would expect, the berry fruit and tannins are fully integrated. Medium plus acidity. Soft, savoury and starting to dry out. Leather tongue finish. A little sour. This Saint-Aubin has aged exceptionally well and offers an super bouquet of tertiary aromas whilst still having sufficient substance on the palate to accompany pheasant, pigeon or pintade. Scores 68/100 and likely would have been higher 2 years earlier before the fruit dried out on the palate.

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