Burgoblog

Chambertin Clos de Bèze 2002, Bruno Clair

2012-01-08T10:32:00.002Z

This was the final wine tasted at what was a lengthy and compelling tasting generously hosted by Phillipe Brun at the domaine in April 2011. Worth comparing with the Clos de Bèze 2009 from the same domaine and the recently-tried Clos de Bèze 2002 from Domaine Drouhin-Laroze. Starts on a soupçon of truffle, rye bread, a fine line of cherry fruit, superb balance and length. Really well integrated, achieves a real purity of pinot noir flavours and aromas with a masculine, savoury finish. Drinking well now and will continue to evolve until 2015 when it will reach the plateau of evolution.

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru "Clos Saint Jacques" 2005, Bruno Clair

2012-01-08T10:26:00.000Z

Philippe Brun who hosted the tasting for us at the domaine kept asking if we wanted to try something else and we naturally answered "mais bien sur!". We tasted this by way of contrast with the 2009 vintage. Produced from small yields, this Clos Saint Jacques 2005 has weighty strawberry, raspberry and cherry flavours. A full, fruit-driven wine. Really big structure filled out by the glorious ripe fruit. Nevertheless has a savoury finish and points to the need to wait until around 2015 to break out these serious and highly structured wines. Solid and meaningful like Wagner's Lohengrin.

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru "Les Cazetiers" 2008, Bruno Clair

2012-01-08T10:19:00.000Z

Having tasted a wide range of wines from the barrel and a few 2009s from the bottle, Philippe Brun, the wine-maker at Domaine Bruno Clair was keen to test our palates with some more mature wines. This 2008 Gevrey 1er cru confirms the edgyness of the vintage: severe, very bright acidity, intense, tightly wound raspberry fruit, blood orange. A vin digeste. Needs at least 4 years to unravel and even then it will need to be imbibed with a rich casserole like lamb cooked with apricots or a canard à l'orange. The vines were planted in 1958 and 1973.

Bonnes Mares 2009, Bruno Clair

2012-01-08T10:14:00.002Z

As we entered the third hour of a cellar tasting with Philippe Brun at Domaine Bruno Clair the quality of insight into the wines reached a crescendo. The discussion centred around the existence of "des fruits bleus" which Phillipe told us didn't make sense in French. "Fruits rouges and fruits noirs" are ok, but not "fruits bleus". We then ended discussing whether we could see "les petits hommes bleus dans la cave" as a result of tasting too many wines from the barrel. We finally spotted some smurfs, or as they are called in French, les Schtroumpfs. Do not myrtilles (blue berries) look blue?This Bonnes Mares 2009, tasted in April 2011, is a floral letter delivered in a vanilla and strawberry envelope. Tart initially, it becomes more charming, elegant, feminin. A truly gorgeous wine, incredible violet aromas leap out of the glass after a few minutes, combined with blue berry flavours. A velvety style supported by a good structured finish at the end. A push-up. Another Absolutely Splendid wine from the domaine which will offer much pleasure over the next 10 years. Possibly not much longer.

Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2009, Bruno Clair

2012-01-08T10:01:00.001Z

Domaine Bruno Clair owns almost one hectare of this legendary grand cru vineyard and they have the wine-making skills to match the splendid terroir. Produced from a mixture of vines planted in 1912 and 1973 this Clos de Bèze has fantastic power elucidated through concentrated, crunchy black berry and cassis fruit, perfectly ripe without a hint of over-ripeness. Very, very long. Finishes with a meaty, beefy nose. Real depth. Requires 10 years to offer everything which I believe will be demonstrably more than the highly-regarded Clos Saint Jacques 2009. Photo shows a door into a walled clos in Gevrey.

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru "Clos Saint Jacques" 2009, Bruno Clair

2012-01-08T09:53:00.001Z

By a quirk of fate when the Burgundy appellations were decided in the 1930s the "Clos Saint Jacques" was ranked as premier cru not grand cru. But quality shines through and this 6.7 hectare lieu dit, with its white marl and good drainage, produces wines that outshine the lesser grands crus in Gevrey. Tasted at the domaine from the cuve in April 2011, this Gevrey "Clos Saint Jacques" 2009 starts with a good cassis nose, fruit-driven, a mélange of black fruits. Big structure, great fruit ripeness, powerful, rich, long, superb quality and that "grand cru" structure reappears. Compare with the tasting notes for the 2006 vintage.

Gevrey-Chmabertin 1er Cru "Clos du Fonteny" 2009, Bruno Clair

2012-01-08T09:45:00.000Z

The "Clos du Fonteny" vines were planted in 1972 and 1987 providing a good platform for concentration and complexity. This Gevrey 1er cru delivers what one expects from the grand homme of the northern Côte de Nuits: red plums, cherries; thick matière, good busty tannins, full flavoured, a medium to big structure, good length and the initial elements of that classic Gevrey spiciness creeping into the palate. Will be interesting to try as early as 2013 as long as it doesn't close up. Very good. Tasted at the domaine in April 2011. Photo shows a bunch of sun-illuminated pinot grapes in a Gevrey vineyard on July 29th in 2011.

Chambolle-Musigny 2009, Bruno Clair

2012-01-08T09:39:00.001Z

Tasted at the domaine in April 2011 this Chambolle 2009 hits the spot: very fin silky tannins, ripe strawberries, glossy, underlying minerality, fresh with a medium body. Nose evolves to more floral notes after a few minutes. Just what one wants from a Chambolle. A fine pinot.

Marsannay 2009, Bruno Clair

2012-01-08T09:32:00.000Z

All too often, poor little Marsannay at the northern tip of the Côte de Nuits is ignored. Not at the Domaine Bruno Clair, which despite its huge 23 hectares of vineyards, puts a lot of effort into producing Marsannay because that is where the domaine is located. Tasted at the domaine in April 2011, Philippe Brun the domaine's long-standing wine-maker told us that they make around 4,000 bottles per hectare, with two vines producing about a litre of wine. This 2009 starts on a raspberry note with an edge of red currant and wafts of vanilla. Good ripeness, pleasant, savoury tannins. Classic pinot from an unsung appellation. Ripe years like 2009 are perfect for the northerly appellations of Marsannay and Fixin. Photo shows Burgoblog contributor and renowned Brunello/Volnay taster behaving in what is known as a "Marsannayed" fashion (listening to the sound of empty bottles) at the Beaune restaurant Ma Cuisine.

Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2010, Bruno Clair

2012-01-08T09:24:00.001Z

Another wine tasted from the barrel in April 2011, this Bonnes Mares starts with a mysterious whiff of côte de boeuf, strawberries, its a beguiling multi-layered nose. The wine-maker Philippe Brun explains that this is a warm vineyard with a significant amount of limestone in the soil which accounts for the full structure, ripeness and elegance. The Bonnes Mares is often picked 3 to 4 days before the Chambertin, reflecting how precocious the ripening is. Even at this stage, 7 months after the harvest, this wine is delicious, ripe, round, fresh and sumptuous. Referring to the Burgoblog quality scale this ranks as Absolutely Splendid.

Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru "La Dominode" 2010, Bruno Clair

2012-01-08T09:18:00.000Z

For the uninformed this Savigny 1er cru looks eye-poppingly expensive for an appellation which typically produces enjoyable, cherry-driven reds in the middle price bracket. Bruno Clair's "La Dominode" is produced 50% from 110 year old vines (the vineyard was planted in 1902), making it one of the red Burgundies with the oldest root stock. Old vines have very low yields hence the elevated price. Tasted from the barrel this Savigny 1er Cru "La Dominode" has a black cherry, relatively closed nose; lots of ripe tannins, balanced by a sturdy agglomeration of black berry fruit. Aged 18 months in oak. A serious wine, hard to decipher at this stage of its vinification. Philippe Brun (pictured outside the domaine) recommends waiting until 2020. A masterpiece to hide at the back of the cellar.

Morey-Saint-Denis 2010, Bruno Clair

2012-01-08T09:09:00.000Z

This is the first of several tasting notes from a superb tasting at domaine Bruno Clair in April 2011 hosted by the long-time oenologue Philippe Brun who has been making wine at the domaine almost since its inception in 1980. Today Domaine Bruno Clair produces wine from almost 23 hectares which makes it one of the largest family-owned producers on the entire Côte d'Or. This Morey 2010 was extracted from the barrel by way of pipette and had recently finished its malolactic fermentation. Lovely black berry and cassis aromas. Fine, sweet, good breadth. Holds a lot of promise for the 2010 vintage which is being talked up even more than 2009. The harvest was small, this Morey was picked from September 24th due to a cool spring which required patience. The wine certainly has the fruit ripeness and charm to be very enjoyable.

Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru "Combe d'Orveau" 2008, Bruno Clavelier

2012-01-08T08:57:00.001Z

Yet another good quality wine tasted at the domaine in April 2011. This Chambolle 1er Cru "Combe d'Orveau" 2008 is an interesting contrast with the 2009 vintage. In fact it would be harder to find a trio of pinot vintages which differ as much as 2007 (floral, bright, medium-bodied, fresh), 2008 (spicy, masculine, backwards, intense) and 2009 (ripe, open, tannic, broad, structured). Blind tasters take note! Bruno Clavelier described this wine as having "tonicité" so more Jennifer Ennis (as in photo) than Mme de Pompadour (the fruity 2009). Onto the wine: red fruits, bright, fairly quiet nose, hints of cinnamon. Very fresh red berry fruit on the palate with a high level of persistence, really fresh lively finish, still integrating and evolving. A touch of sucrosité on the lips at the end. Like many other 2008s this is a vin de garde and will require at least another 5 years before opening up to what I expect will be a multi-dimensional wine (but not multi-layered) with a wide range of fascinating tertiary characteristics.

Corton Grand Cru "Le Rognet" 2009, Bruno Clavelier

2012-01-08T08:44:00.000Z

This Corton grand cru is located at the northern tip of the Corton grands crus closer to Nuits Saint Georges than Beaune. Tasted at the domaine in April 2011 this recently-bottled 2009 kicked off on notes of oregano and cherry. Still relatively closed. Dates, good concentration, big structure, rich cassis and strawberry fruits. Ripe and savoury. Will be great... in about 6 years time! An impressive, multi-dimensional wine. Worth waiting for. Photo shows the iconic colline de Corton on August 9th 2010 with "Le Rognet" on the right hand side below the wood.

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru "Corbeaux" 2009, Bruno Clavelier

2012-01-08T08:31:00.001Z

This wine was originally tasted at the domaine in April 2011. There is a total of 26 premiers crus in Gevrey. The lieu-dit "Corbeaux" is south of the village before the strip of grands crus begins. There are over 3 hectares of this vineyard which sits in a "combe" (small tributary valley) tumbling out of the Côte. This location provides a cool wind from the hills which enhances finesse by drying the grapes. This Gevrey 1er Cru is relatively backwards on the nose compared to other 2009s which are much more open. The future promise is clear on the palate: ripe strawberry, powerful, great fruit depth, ripe and appealing. This wine should be cellared until 2014 before tasting with roast lamb or venison with chestnuts.

Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru "Combe d'Orveau" 2009, Bruno Clavelier

2012-01-08T08:23:00.000Z

Tasted at the domaine back in April 2011, this Chambolle 1er Cru is another superb wine from the Bruno Clavelier domaine who took over from his parents in 1987. Clive Côates refers to Bruno as a rising star in his 1997 book. Certainly the star has risen into the firmament! This lieu dit is perched on the edge of "Les Petits Musignys" and according to M. Clavelier was classed as a grand cru prior to the phyloxera epidemic. This wine offers intense red fruit on the nose and cracked pebbles. Lashings of glorious cherry fruit, very long, persistent, lovely, sumptuous and soft. As one tasted exclaimed: "Ca me rapelle Mme de Pompadour!". Photo shows the grande dame herself as painted by the romanticist François Boucher.

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Boudriotte" 2006, Bachelet-Ramonet

2012-01-08T01:12:00.001Z

"Boudriotte" can be sold as "Morgeot" so its interesting that the domaine vinifies this separately. This red Chassagne-Boudriotte 2006 has an integrated savoury nose, raspberry and strawberry with a hint of vanilla. This red Burgundy is vinified in barrels previously used for white wines without any new oak. Produced from 60 year old vines it has a potent, rich and tannic structure. Requires another couple of years to fully open up. Solid and well made.

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Morgeot" 2007, Bachelet-Ramonet

2012-01-08T01:05:00.002Z

Morgeot is one of the Chassagne lieux-dits which is planted in red and white. This is the red which can be compared with the Chassagne-Morgeot blanc 2007. A deep red colour lapped by waves of licorice. A cracking initial nose of basil, oregano, baked tomato. There is licorice, it is a multi-faceted wine, interesting nose. Starts on cassis flavours, fairly soft, rounded, long with good tannins at the finish. A wine to be tasted fairly young, in the next 2 years.

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Clos St Jean" 2008, Bachelet-Ramonet

2012-01-08T00:59:00.002Z

Despite being above the village, fairly high up the Côte most of this lieu-dit is planted with pinot where normally one would expect it to be chardonnay. And this Clos St Jean confirms that pinot is the way to go. Grilled plums, strawberries, some toast. Attractive sweetness on the nose which adds potency and finishes on a gentle licorice aroma. This pinot Clos St Jean has ripe fruit, ripe tannins, cherry and strawberry focused. Balanced, excellent range of fruit layers with a residual sweetness. Splendid stuff and shows how Côte de Beaune reds can benefit from the extra days of sunshine in a cool vintage like 2008.

Bâtard-Montrachet 2008, Bachelet-Ramonet

2012-01-08T00:51:00.003Z

There are just 11.87 hectares of Bâtard to be shared by a global population of a billion wine drinkers representing just 68,000 bottles in an average year. The appellation is fragmented across around 30 producers the biggest being Domaine Leflaive with a whopping 2 hectares. Bachelet-Ramonet is in the top five with 56 acres. This Bâtard starts with pain grillé from the 35% Tronçais new oak barrels which have a tighter grain offering more finesse. Rounded, good structure, still figuring out its personality. Will fill out but doesn't have the concentration found in other grands crus. Then again, the price is much more friendly and its still a real pleasure! Photo shows a horse ploughing the Bâtard-Montrachet vineyard in July 2010.

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Grande-Montagne" 2008, Bachelet-Ramonet

2012-01-08T00:36:00.000Z

This premier cru lieu-dit has just 2.78 hectares all planted in chardonnay and includes the marvellously named lieu-dit "Tonton Marcel". The terroir is on the côteaux above the village and is considered to be one of the best lieux dits for whites due to the limestone content in the soil and the good drainage. The wine starts with a whiff of vanilla, peach, mineral and nashi pear. Lime, lemon, apple, slightly salty. Racy and sophisticated. This "Grand Montagne" lives up to the billing of the terroir. Photo shows a nashi pear.

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Morgeot" 2008, Bachelet-Ramonet

2012-01-08T00:26:00.001Z

A second Chassagne-Morgeot tasted at the domaine in April 2008 after the 2007 vintage. This is a glorious 2008 Chassagne blanc with aromas of pear, white peach and ripe lemon. On the palate, apricots, sweet, fresh, mineral, round, multi-dimensional, good fruit fat on the finish. Significantly more "fun" than the 2007 which was lean without being mineral. Further confirmation of the pleasures on offer from white 2008s.

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Morgeot" 2007, Bachelet-Ramonet

2012-01-08T00:17:00.000Z

This Chassagne blanc 1er cru from Bachelet-Ramonet is produced from a soil with relatively high clay content. The 2007 vintage was characterized by a very warm and precocious spring and a cool, damp summer. This produced wines with complex aromas and bright flavours. This Chassagne-Morgeot has lemon and lime aromas, it is fairly slight, a slip of a wine, vanilla, a waft of marshmallow. Racy, fresh, linear, bright, yellow, green, tangy and sharp. This is a typical wine from the vintage. Very good value when purchased at the domaine. Not in the top flight from a quality perspective. Clive Côates believes Morgeot is better suited to pinots due to the heavier clay soil. Photo shows Chassagne morgeot lieu-dit in April 2009.

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Caillerets" 2008, Bachelet-Ramonet

2012-01-08T00:05:00.001Z

This Chassagne 1er cru blanc starts with aromas of ripe, pink grapefruit, strawberry juice and fleur de fraise. A touch of creme anglaise and rich, egg yolk basted pastry. Orange and ripe lemon, a fairly hot finish. Aged 25% in new oak which strikes the right balance. The domaine uses batonnage to enrich the flavours by stirring the lees. Will be enjoyable from 2012 onwards until 2014. These are wines designed to be imbibed within 5-7 years of harvest. "Les Cailerets" is on the south of the village on the upper slopes with a significant amount of limestone.

Chassagne-Montrachet 2008, Bachelet-Ramonet

2012-01-07T23:57:00.002Z

The Bachelet-Ramonet domaine, based in Chassagne, owns 13 hectares of vines including two grands crus. The wines feature regularly in the Guide Hachette but the domaine has not achieved much mind share with Burgundy experts. We tasted at the domaine in April 2011 and had some very amusing banter Alain Bonnefoy and his wife who own the estate. This Chassagne blanc starts on white flowers, peach and pear. Light citrus and pear on the palate. Long, fresh, medium body, refreshing. Another great example of the impressive 2008 vintage.

Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 1993, Jean Raphet

2012-01-07T23:43:00.001Z

This domaine is based in Morey and has a fairly low profile -- there are few mentions of the Jean Raphet domaine in the usual Burgundy guides. Gerard Raphet took over recently from his father Jean. Tasting almost 20 year old pinots is a bit like playing pot luck, they can be amazing, weird or dull. This Gevrey grand cru has a cherry colour with an orange rim. Aromas of saddle leather, licorice, cooked orange rind. Moves on to pheasant. Wonderfully integrated orange and red currant flavours then morello cherry. As usual in older wines, the ripe fruit dissipates and the acidity comes to the fore. Hint of schnapps on the back palate. Finishes on rye bread and roast lamb aromas. Good, interesting and a tad weird. On the downward slope of the maturity plateau.

Morey-Saint-Denis 2006, Domaine Dujac

2011-12-29T20:28:00.001Z

This is the second Domaine Dujac wine tasted in the festive season following the Clos de la Roche 1998. A wine imbibed at the Tate Britain restaurant, this Morey parades itself with medium thick legs and engages the taster with a nose of fennel, sage, aniseed and red berries. Verges on citrus. Excellent structure, good ripe tannins, fresh, needs 5 years to open up and cloak itself in more varied garb.

Saint-Aubin "En Remilly" 2002, Domaine Hubert Lamy

2011-12-29T20:16:00.001Z

The "En Remilly" from Domaine Hubert Lamy is an old favourite, the 1991 and 1992 were splendid examples which got me hooked on white Burgundy. Tasting notes for the 2007, 2002 and 2000 help explain the goodness in this wine. Opening on vanilla yoghurt, lemon sponge, almond. This is very fine. Mineral, good acidity, lemon, apple and pear melded together. Glorious ripe pear fruit, warm, fairly potent, stylish. Quality: Fairly Good. Photo shows Saint-Aubin church in July 2010.

Vougeot "Clos du Prieuré" 1999, Domaine de la Vougeraie

2011-12-29T19:58:00.000Z

A few years ago I went to a tasting at Domaine de la Vougeraie and was impressed by the clarity and elegance of the wines. This is the first Burgoblog tasting note on a Vougeot because the appellation contrôlée is the smallest on the Côte d'Or at a minuscule 16 hectares. For comparison Vosne-Romanée is 150 hectares and top notch Margaux Château Palmer has 53 hectares. No wonder terroir is far more important in Burgundy than in Bordeaux! A limpid red cherry colour announces aromas of red plum, soil, strawberry, grand marnier, cranberries, red currant. Bright cassis on the palate, lively acidity, significant tannins, structured, savoury finish, serious stuff. Possibly lacks some fruit ripeness. An impressive wine. Quality: Not Bad At All.

Vosne-Romanée 2005, Michel Gros

2011-12-29T19:36:00.001Z

One of the truly remarkable things about Burgundy is that no matter how many years of tasting one puts in, there is always a legion of known but untouched producers; the known unknowns. And this is the case for me with Domaine Michel Gros. For the Burgundy specialists Michel is the brother of Anne-Françoise Gros and also Bertrand Gros who runs Gros Frère & Soeur. Glorious nose of black cherry, plum, roasted, big, hearty and welcoming. Secondary aromas are laced with aniseed, chestnuts, violets. Ripe, rich fruit on the palate, cassis, cherry, big structure, fresh, some acidity. Already drinking well. Will 2005s age well? I think they may be foursquare and not evolve a more sophisticated structure. Excellent contribution betwixt Christmas and New Year from Jezza.

Chassagne-Montrachet "Les Enseignères" 2006, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey

2011-12-21T22:24:00.003Z

A second bottle tasted at the Tate Britain annual luncheon hosted by a trio of Dijon oenologists. Bright silver with green tints, lime, green asparagus, lemon and a hint of vanilla. Evolves to herbaceous aromatics. This 2006 is incredibly fresh, which is at odds with the ripe, fruity 2006 vintage. One assumes the domaine picked early to capture more freshness since there was a real risk of a honeyed, over-ripe style in 2006. Grassy, dandelions, green apple, citrus, fresh, dry. Very refreshing. An intriguing wine.

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Morgeot" 2004, Domaine Ramonet

2011-12-21T22:18:00.002Z

We tasted this at the Tate Britain restaurant which has some splendid wines at reasonable prices although they have run out of DRC. This 2004 Chassagne was only available in the half-bottle format and according to the Bevan-Chua bottle-size aging scale this means that after 7 years in a half-bottle has matured by 1.9 years more than a full-size bottle. A brassy colour announces a bouquet with soft spices, cooked sultanas, baked orange and orange sponge cake. Even a hint of Chanel No. 5. A soft and feminine nose. On the palate the savoury and tertiary flavours dominate -- vanilla, cigar box, dried autumn leaves. The fruit has dried out. Still enjoyable but the fruit is going, going... gone.

Chambertin Grand Cru 2007, Domaine Trapet

2011-12-18T19:33:00.001Z

The contrast between this 2007 Chambertin and the 2008 Chambertin tells you all you need to know about the thrills and spills of Burgundy vintages. The terroir and the wine-maker assure the quality level is great and the vintage has a powerful influence on the characteristics. This is why we need to buy in every vintage! This 2007 Chambertin from Domaine Trapet starts on a bouquet of violets and cassis. This is a sweet, flattering almost feminine wine on the nose. The Trapet domaine offers us a Chambertin with superb berry fruit, sheer quality shines through, cassis, sweet raspberry, wild strawberry, very consistent and long. Pleasant to taste now. An absolute joy of a wine. Photo shows wild strawberries (fragaria vasca).

Chambertin Grand Cru 2008, Domaine Trapet

2011-12-18T19:25:00.001Z

This Chambertin 2008, tasted at the domaine, started on red cherry aromas entangled with honeysuckle. There is obvious sweetness in the mouth, blackberry, sharp acidity, lively tannins coated with a ripe red currant and raspberry cloak of fruit. There's loganberry ("mûroise") in the glass. This 2008 Chambertin grand cru is saline,"un vin digeste" with residual sweetness on the finish. Needs at least 10 years to evolve and give up its secrets. Anticipate will be very complex and intriguing. A real wine for connoisseurs. Could it be more obvious that this vineyard is horse-ploughed?

Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru 2008, Domaine Trapet

2011-12-18T19:16:00.001Z

Tasted at the domaine with Mme Trapet in May 2011 this Gevrey grand cru is aged 50% in new oak and 50% in one year old barrels. The domaine pursues bio-dynamic viticulture. Largely closed on the nose. Intense, crunchy red berry fruit with a tannin impact. Refined mineral finish and then a second wave of fruit appears. Needs another 4 years to fill out. All the materials are there for a fascinating wine in 10 years time. Photo shows Jenson and Mme Trapet discussing the finer details of how to produce top quality grands crus.

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru "Petite Chapelle" 2008, Domaine Trapet

2011-12-18T19:11:00.001Z

This 1er Cru lieu dit is down the slope from Chapelle-Chambertin. Another clarification of the exciting and perplexing 2008 vintage characteristics. Spice, white pepper, cherry, there is decent fruit here with strawberry dominant. Rounded, good fruit length mixing red currant and rhubarb with a stitching of orange. Savoury finish. Definitely a food wine. The overly-bright flavours will not please anyone who is a fan of Bordeaux wines.

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru "Au Closeau" 2009, Drouhin-Laroze

2011-12-18T19:02:00.001Z

The final "Au Closeau" tasted at the domaine, recently bottled. This 2009 Gevrey 1er Cru contrasted significantly with the abstract and enthralling 2008. The 2009 was immediately hitting black berry fruits and black cherries reflecting the ripe 2009 vintage. Not yet open though. Closes up again. This is a ripe, rounded and rich wine. Impressive structure with balancing mineral freshness. Explains why 2009 is such a crowd pleaser. Very good.

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru "Au Closeau" 2008, Drouhin-Laroze

2011-12-18T18:58:00.002Z

A third "Au Closeau" tasted at the domaine in Gevrey in May 2011 during a calorific lunch with a wonderful view of the vineyards behind the house. The media didn't like 2008 pinots much -- too difficult, problems with ripening the grapes. But many wine-makers expect it will be superb. The finely-poised characteristics remind me of 1989 which provided stunning beverages like the Chambertin 1989 from Rousseau. This Gevrey 2008 has a pheasant nose, its heady and really gamey, there is cinnamon, star anise, dried orange. volatile compounds. Remarkable stuff! I've heard of inorganic chemistry and that's what this is. Fresh acidity, orange, bright raspberry, possibly a tad too narrow on the palate right now. This will be incredible if it fills out over the next 2 years. Must wait until 2014 before indulging. Compare with the 2006 and 2007 from the same vineyard to understand quite how special this is.

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru "Au Closeau" 2007, Drouhin-Laroze

2011-12-18T18:52:00.003Z

The 2007 vintage combined a very precocious spring with a cool and damp summer resulting in wines that are all marked by the vintage. This "Au Closeau" 2007 is no exception. On the nose it offers very sweet strawberry, cooked damsons, with a halo of floral scents. This contrasts with much brighter flavours of sweet red berries, a light medium body, linear style, fresh. Ideal companion for wood pigeon or pheasant cooked with red currant jelly. Not a steak wine.

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru "Au Closeau" 2006, Drouhin-Laroze

2011-12-18T18:45:00.001Z

Whenever I taste the "Au Closeau" premier cru I can't help but think about Peter Sellers acting Inspector Clouseau. I doubt any French people would be affected by this confusion. The good thing is that I approach the wine with a sense of humeur. I wonder which wine he preferred? For the record, this was tasted at the domaine in May 2011. Like other 2006s, this wine is hard to decipher: closed, background plum, pebbles, some raspberry. Cherry fruit with a quartz wrapper on the palate. Really excellent fruit quality. Good length, ripe tannins even a touch firey on the finish. A full wine which will age well and offer much complexity. Not everything has been revealed. Needs further investigation by Kato.

Meursault-Charmes 1er Cru 2008, Patrick Javillier

2011-12-18T18:06:00.000Z

Earlier on this year I hosted a tasting of 6 Chassagnes with two bottles from the 2007, 2008 and 2009 vintages. At the end of the tasting everyone clamoured for the 2008s. They really are appealing already. This Meursault-Charmes 2008 is soft, seductive, there is dive-in-deep yellow stone fruit. More freshness from a flavour of cherry juice. This chardonnay is rich, rounded, very long and yet still has superb balance. Really needs to be matured for another 4 years to reveal all of its glory!

Meursault "Les Tillets" 2009, Patrick Javillier

2011-12-18T18:02:00.002Z

Tasted at the domaine back in May 2011, I just rediscovered this digital tasting note. At the same time I am concerned that my Meursault tasting notes are approaching the century while Puligny languishes at a mere half-century. This Meursault 2009 from the venerable Javillier domaine has a fresh citrus nose. On the palate really tight mineral, lemon, a hint of oak and line of apple. Really good acidity. Yes, this is a textbook Meursault. As always needs time to fill out and take on a rounder shape with more sophisticated aromas. Best to revisit in 2013.

Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru "Les Montchenevoy" 2007, Patrick Javillier

2011-12-18T17:53:00.000Z

One of the many good things about blind tasting is that the wine's label has no impact on one's appreciation of the wine. I confess though that I am a sucker for labels which evoke Bacchic riot and the Javillier label has more than a hint of over-flowing Roman amphorae. This 2007 red Savigny 1er Cru has a glorious rich red colour with a rim of hen pheasant plumage. Announced by red currant coulis, blood orange, cinnamon, marjoram -- sweet herbs on the nose -- the dominant flavour is of wonderful pure red berry fuit ending on touches of pomegranite. Fully evolved. A vin digeste which is representative of the 2007 vintage. Consume by the end of 2012. Photo shows the renowned Piemonte specialist Ammar getting a lesson in pinots in the Javillier cellar in Meursault.

Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru "Les Amoureuses" 2004, Amiot-Servelle

2011-12-18T17:42:00.000Z

I have visited this family-run domaine in Chambolle several times over the years. The cellar is particularly hobbit-like. More Underhill than Baggins. "Les Amoureuses" sells at a premium to other Chambolle 1ers crus because it is just down the slope from "Musigny" and it also has a highly marketable name perfectly designed to fleece young gentlemen on St Valentine's day. This 2004 has an initial nose of bread, granite, dust, limestone (more white Premeaux than pink Chassagne). Green pepper, dried plum, savoury... almost bitter. Intense plum, sour black cherry, licorice root, tree bark. Short, like a midget with an attitude (eg in Time Bandits). Better than some 2004s. Angular, awkward, interesting. I don't think Saint Vincent would proffer it as a gift to Saint Valentine.

Echezeaux Grand Cru 2004, Robert Arnoux

2011-12-13T21:31:00.002Z

This domaine is based in Vosne-Romanée and is run by Pascal Lachaux who took over the wine-making from Robert Arnoux in the 1990s. Like Dr Burgundy, he studied oenology at Dijon University, not that such a minor fact influences the integrity of my tasting notes! Echezeaux is the ultimate beginner's grand cru. Unlike the surly Clos de Vougeot or the prohibitively expensive Musigny, it is approachable and enjoyable. This Echezeaux flies the flag for the lieu-dit. A thick black cherry colour with thick tears announced a nose of baked myrtilles, black currant stalks and moss. The aroma of the old newspaper in Autine's wardrobe and matchbox wafts in and out -- the defining characteristic of all Côte de Nuits 2004s. Then this wine shines on the palate: cherry fruit, a hint of toasted barrels, surprisingly ripe fruit, a dose of oven-roast lamb, good black fruits, fresh finish, good extraction and finesse for a 2004. This wine is long! Fairly potent with a patch of lingering sourness on the upper palate. A superb result for the troublesome 2004 vintage. Perfect with a lamb casserole. Photo shows the Echezeaux vineyard on August 10th 2011. And with the euro crashing to €1.18 / £1.00 "les anglo-saxons" will be stocking up on Echezeaux in 2012!

Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru "Orveaux" 2002, Mongeard-Mugneret

2011-12-11T22:37:00.001Z

This Domaine owns a whopping 30 hectares mostly in the Côtes de Nuits as well as pockets in Beaune, Pernand and Savigny. Interesting to see the evolution of the 2002 when it had nine years of evolution, eight years and six years. Les Orveaux has a north-easterly exposition so is better in bigger, riper years like 2002. The nose is on cherry, plum, slightly cooked -- a characteristic of the domaine. Turns to barnyard. There's plum fruit here, broad tannins, hefty. This has a half-timber structure. Slightly astringent finish. Excellent wine and good contrast with the Vosne from Anne-Françoise Gros 2001.

Vosne-Romanée Aux Réas 2001, Anne-Françoise Gros

2011-12-11T22:24:00.001Z

This Vosne village lieu-dit is priced at the level of a premier cru since it is next to the Clos des Réas which is a premier cru. I confess that this has been a plank in my cellar for many years as tasting notes for the 1999, 2001, 2004 and 2005 bear witness. Just as one would wish, this pinot is ruby and reflective. Appetizing aromas of mineral, flint, raspberry growing in a rock, floral. There is a hint of myrtille flavour, red berries, blood orange, savoury with a fresh finish. Beautifully evolved. Like other 2001s it has reached full maturity and soon the fruit will dry out. Perfect complement for roast chicken façon Mitch. Photo shows a bunch of pinot grapes in Vosne-Romanée on August 10th 2011.

Romanée St Vivant Grand Cru 1997, Domaine Leroy

2011-12-11T22:10:00.001Z

The world famous Domaine Leroy owns almost a full hectare of Romanée St Vivant. Even acquiring a bottle of grand cru from Domaine Leroy is worthy of a novella by Kafka. People who buy direct from the Domaine must do so every year. And this involves pyramid selling -- for each bottle of Leroy grand cru one has to buy a stipulated minimum of Leroy villages wines (which are also excellent) as well as a case or so of the Leroy collection wines which I am informed are unpredictable (and not made by Leroy). Enough of the brand, what about the wine? Tasted as one of four grands crus at Bibendum this 1997 Romanée St Vivant started on a stalky, red currant nose. Evolves to violets, really floral. Then the leaves waft back in. On the palate dried cranberries, wild strawberry jam, elements of oak. Nose continues on green tea, possibly brown rice tea and raspberry leaf. An intriguing wine. A very generous contribution to the Bibendum Burgundy dinner. Does it live up to the hype? I'm afraid not quite. Doesn't come close to the Echezeaux 2000 from DRC. Which is a fair comparison.

Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 1998, Domaine Dujac

2011-12-11T21:59:00.001Z

Domaine Dujac own 15 hectares of top quality vineyards in the Côtes de Nuits. Back in the late 1990s I crossed tasting glasses with Jeremy Seysses who was slurping for Oxford University in the annual Varsity Blind Wine-Tasting competition and has now joined his father Jacques at the domaine. This 1998 Clos de la Roche starts with cassis, soft, rounded, red berries. Rich strawberries, evolves to cooked plums and black cherries. Still fresh. A full wine, very good. No mysticism though. Photo shows the leaf of a pinot vine in the Clos de la Roche vineyard in July 2011.

Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2002, Drouhin-Laroze

2011-12-11T21:52:00.001Z

A second wine tasted at the Bibendum Burgundy tasting. This Clos de Bèze 2002 was the fist I cracked open from the case knowing that the vintage is a robust vin de garde. The colour of this grand cru stood out from the other wines in the tasting with a deep, profound, black cherry colour. More opaque than the usual pinot. Initial nose of blood orange, saddle leather, savoury, still fairly closed. Then black tea and bergamote. As expected this is a powerful, tannic wine. There's a lift of acidity at the end. Needs time, intense and brooding. Excellent with food. I doubt the 2002s will ever offer much hedonistic drinking as a solo pursuit. Domaine Drouhin-Laroze has a phenomenal range of grands crus and premiers crus and, for my part, produces benchmark Gevrey. Photo shows sun-soaked grapes in Gevrey on July 29th 2011.

Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2006, Armand Rousseau

2011-12-11T21:36:00.001Z

This outstanding domaine needs no introduction. Tasted at the excellent London restaurant Bibendum under ye olde rites of corkage, this young Clos de la Roche proved itself precocious. A bright and deep strawberry red colour. Vanilla, red notes, a hint of spice. Lovely, charming, delightfully fresh. Fruit-driven then finishes with good breadth, spicy and intense. The classic Rousseau shape an elegant length with a powerful finish. Enjoyable now but clearly has more to offer in 4 years time. The Clos de la Roche is aged in one year old barrels which makes it more approachable. This domaine has ploughed the vineyards since 2000.

Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits 2006, Gros Frère & Soeur

2011-12-07T20:16:00.001Z

Deep cherry colour with very unctuous legs. Strawberry and beech bark nose. A bit plummy, a bit of black cherry, a streak of rye bread. Sombre not lively. Good strawberry fruit, a bit heavy, has a firey finish wish comes from the odd wine-making technique the domaine uses. The wines from this domaine seem to finish on a strawberry schnapps note because the wine and skins are heated to 40 degrees centigrade for 24 hours after all the sugar has been transformed into alcohol. Other wine producers speaking off the record consider this a very odd technique. He ain't my brother, but he sure is heavy. Photo shows pinot vines in the Hautes Côtes de Nuits on August 10th 2011.

Chambolle-Musigny 2004, A-F Gros

2011-12-01T21:44:00.001Z

This Chambolle 2004 is the best of the vintage. An appealing mature plum colour with brown interlacing almost like a tawny port. Cooked strawberry, blood orange, Heston Blumenthal edible moss and bark (if you don't understand visit the Fat Duck), with lovely nutmeg and cinnamon aromas. Finishes on buttered toast. Savoury, plum, black currant, linear, loganberry. Fresh and dry, this shows the best evolution possible for a 2004 red Burgundy. Also raises the question: "If François Parent could make a Chambolle like this why couldn't everyone else?" Compare with the Chambolle 2005 from the same domaine.

Gevrey-Chambertin "Cuvée Ostrea" 2001, Domaine Trapet

2011-12-01T21:21:00.001Z

A second wine tasted at the famous Paris restaurant La Tour d'Argent during a four hour luncheon. I selected Trapet's Ostrea having tried the 2009 at the domaine in May 2011. Mme Trapet was a wonderful and very humorous host. Lets not forget that despite all the media inattention, 2001 was a superb pinot vintage: fresh berry fruits, nervous acidity and sophisticated aromas. By contrast the 2002s are still heavy, the 2003s are largely dead and the 2004s are ropey aside from a few Cote-de-Beaune wines or remarkably good wine-making by people like François Parent. So back to this wine, tasted with the caneton. A nose of bright red fruits, cranberry, raspberry. Evolves towards red plum. Its multi-layered with licorice and pencil lead. Good fruit ripeness and balance. Ripe berry fruits still dominate the underlying savoury tones. This Gevrey 2001 is at the peak of its powers. Perfect with the caneton Marco Polo and the chef Laurent Delarbe's uncontrollably hairy side-burns which seems to be a 100 year-old tradition at the restaurant. Compare with the 2009 Ostrea. Photo shows members of the Trapet family dressed as Cistercian monks "pour plaisanter".

Chablis 1er Cru "Montée de Tonnerre" 2001, Domaine Raveneau

2011-12-01T21:07:00.001Z

Raveneau is a legendary Chablis producer, possibly THE legendary Chablis producer. The odd thing is that there doesn't seem to be anything spectacular about the wine-making: hand-picked grapes, earlier harvest to preserve acidity, fermentation in stainless steel followed by ageing for 18 months in oak feuilletes with at least 7 years of age. Perhaps it is the low yields which contribute so much. This 10 year old Chablis 1er Cru has a thick yellow colour. Initial aromas of crushed sea shells and Jurassic chalk cliffs. Evolves to honeysuckle and fresh apricot, tangerine and a splash of lemon. On the palate this Raveneau offers fresh citrus fruits and yellow peach with a mineral finish. Elegant, stimulating and masterful. A splendid wine to accompany the view of Paris offered by our table at La Tour d'Argent and the fabulous Escargots des Murailles au velouté de persillade.

Beaune 1er Cru "Les Boucherottes" 2004, AF Gros

2011-11-11T00:24:00.001Z

Who said 2004 was awful for red Burgundy? I did, for one. But it turns out that the Cote de Nuits was bad whereas on the more southerly Cote de Beaune those extra two to three days of sunshine pushed ripeness levels from green to tangy. This Beaune 1er cru from the venerable Domaine Anne-Francoise Gros in Pommard has a deep red colour and is very slightly petillant. Glorious pinot nose of raspberry, black currant, dried blackberry and aniseed. Bright loganberry, black currant and apple stalks on the palate. All good though: the soupcon on stalk is fully melded with fresh berry flavours. Really fresh tannins, wrapped in just-ripe berry fruit. Slightly dry, balsa and walnut skin finish. Yet more proof of the eminence of this domaine which focuses on fine quality, terroir and the most charming feminine marketing. Photo shows the Beaune vineyards looking south towards Pommard.

Saint-Aubin 1er Cru "Clos des Meix" 2008, Hubert Lamy

2011-11-06T19:05:00.004Z

This Saint-Aubin has a bright, transparent, steely yellow colour. Oak, citrus and vanilla nose. Not much evolution and a little mute. Really needs more time to open up and evolve. Apple, pear, lemon and mineral. Plumps up a little after warming in the glass but not yet much weight. Tasty, balanced, fresh stone fruit flavours, dare I say it is a tad light? Classic white Burgundy though will need to wait 2 years for more complexity. Another confirmation of the high quality of the 2008 millesime.

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru "Clos de la Mouchere" 2005, Henri Boillot

2011-11-06T18:55:00.002Z

This is the 20th vintage vinified by Henri Boillot, the domaine was previously called Domaine Jean Boillot. This clos must form part of one of the larger Puligny 1er crus because it is not identified even in detailed maps. Just six years after the harvest this Puligny 2005 sports a deep yellow colour. Initial subtle aromas of cepes and creme anglaise. Then vanilla and cinnamon -- evolved oak aromas. Huge impact on the palate! Very concentrated, spiced, cooked apple. Very thick, potent alcohol, present tannins, rich apricot fruit, this is gigantic, conjures the idea of a cask strength Puligny. There is an unfortunate edge of oxidization, a frequent complaint about the ripe fruit-driven 2005s which often lack acidity. This is fully evolved and should not be cellared any longer. Many thanks to the Renaissance man, Ammar, for this cadeau.

Bourgogne 2003, Jacques Cacheux

2011-10-09T20:17:00.002+01:00

This is another of those bottles which I uncovered lurking at the back of the cellar. Imagine the excavation of the Valley of the Workers in a valley next to the Valley of the Kings. This red Burgundy from the super-hot 2003 vintage is intriguing. Bouquet of cherry schnapps, rye bread, licorice, aniseed, pernod. Becomes port-like with a hint of fennel. Cherry and plum flavours. Definitely reductive and oxidized. An edge of balsamic vinegar. More like a Rhone red than a Bourgogne rouge but its not a zombie.

Marsannay Vieilles Vignes 2005, Dominique Laurent

2011-09-17T20:32:00.000+01:00

Having attended a legendary Tournante de St Vincent in January 1993, Marsannay has - and always will have -- a special place in my liver, even if the wines can sometimes err on the stalky side. Not this marvellous example though. Thick, sombre, dark cherry colour. Black currant, raspberry and morello cherry nose. Red plum creeping around the edges of the nostril. Delicious cherry fruit, ripe tannins, for a Marsannay a good tannic structure with a cylinder of plum and cherry fruit. Tasted blind I could imagine people waxing lyrical about this being a Gevrey 1er Cru. Wonderful expression of the luxurious 2005 vintage. Suggests the Dominique Laurent domaine is worth investigating. Photo shows a Burgoblog taster who has taken a tournante for the worse.

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Clos Saint Jean" 2007, Fontaine-Gagnard

2011-09-13T22:53:00.001+01:00

This Chassagne, the sixth of the wines tasted blind, starts on an orangey note and moves on to pear even a touch of the dreaded (by wine-makers) asparagus. Shows the classic 2007 characteristics on the palate: mineral, elegant, stylish, refined, linear and zappy. This is far better than the Bernard Morey 2007. This vintage was not one that had the fruit to support significant amounts of new oak.

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Clos du Chateau de la Maltroye" Monopole 2009, Chateau de la Maltroye

2011-09-13T22:36:00.002+01:00

A fifth wine in a blind-tasting of six Chassagnes premier crus. This monopole wine from the posh and arty Chateau de la Maltroye was the most rich and obviously luxurious wine tasted. Aromas of creme brulee, deep and sexy, pastry, lemon tart, creme anglaise. This 2009 is very rich on the palate, spicy, some underlying resin, long, rounded with ripe tree fruit. More house style dare I say than anything to do with the terroir. But when its a monopole there is no comparison possible. Enjoyed by the team but not set on a podium.

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Morgeot" 2007, Bernard Morey

2011-09-13T22:21:00.000+01:00

Two years ago I turned up at Bernard Moreau's for a tasting with a few friends only to discover that I had booked a tasting with Bernard Morey. This is an impressive domaine in Chassagne and we included this 1er Cru in a blind-tasting. I'm afraid that it faired badly compared with the five other Chassagnes. The first nose belts out oak with even a hint of kerosene. The oak aromas continue -- almost like a green oak without any ageing. This aggressive oak aroma obscures everything else and induces a headache. The theme continues on the palate: oak-dominated. Lemon, heavy, spicy finish. Nobody liked this wine but it wasn't corked. My advice: much less new oak!

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Caillerets" 2008, Guy Amiot

2011-09-13T22:15:00.002+01:00

I confess that having tasted many fine bottles from Domaine AMIOT Guy I am a fan. What a joy to taste this wine blind and still find favour. A medium yellow, starts on a pleasant egg custard, then these initial aromas waft away as a classic citrus and lemon tart bouquet comes to the fore. The final nose at this stage is a blend of Granny Smith apples, Cox's apples and a soupcon of russet apples. Integrated, citrus, classic minerality, rounded out by good fruit, enjoyable length and an edge of quartz. On a par with the Paul Pillot Chassagne 1er Cru 2008but made in a different style.

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Caillerets" 2008, Paul Pillot

2011-09-13T22:04:00.001+01:00

The second wine in six Chassagne 1er crus tasted blind. This bottle of 2008 from Paul Pillot won plaudits from the tasting team -- including no less than four ex-Captains of the Cambridge "All The Fine Burgundy You Can Drink" blind-tasting team. A lemony first nose with hints of lime. This then becomes riper with sweet apple and pear -- really gorgeous. Ends up on a honeyed note. The best is yet to come. In the mouth this Chassagne 1er Cru from Paul Pillot is balanced, elegant, fruit-driven, with a dry finish and impressive length. A very well made wine and suggests 2008 will be impressive in 2 years time. Photo shows Chassagne vineyards in April 2009.

Chassagne 1er Cru "Les Vides Bourses" 2009, Marc Colin

2011-09-13T21:53:00.002+01:00

Chassagne is chock-a-block with branches of the Colin family. I wonder if they enjoy eating hake with their Chassagne whites. "Hake" being the translation of "Colin". We tasted this Chassagne as one of six premiers crus all tasted blind. The bright yellow colour announces a 2009 with an initial creamy nose and brazil nuts. The aromas are still closed and the second nose after 2 minutes in the glass is light citrus and white flower effort. Evolves to more lemon, its bright but not singing. Pleasant, balanced, tasty, medium to high acidity. Un vin vif. Enjoyed by the ten tasters but not preferred at its current state of evolution.

Beaune 1er Cru "Les Cent Vignes" 2007, Château de la Velle

2011-08-11T21:01:00.001+01:00

This wine is a perfect example of why Burgundy is so interesting and also so infuriating for the cognothingscenti. A glorious deep black cherry colour, an enjoyable cherry and plum nose, a superb balance in the mouth with lovely red and black fruit flavours, length, freshness and concentration. But this Beaune 1er Cru is much more closed than when tasted in August 2010! Like many 2007s tasted in mid-2011 this wine needs at least 12 months possibly 18 months to rebound, unleash its secondary aromas and and put on fat in the mouth. A classic case of the dip in form during the year which is between 4 years and 5 years after the harvest. I anticipate a somersault in compelxity by December 2012. Photo shows Beaune vineyards looking towards Pommard in early August 2011. Click on the photo for a version with more definition. This shot gives a great view of the varying gradations of the slope of the Cote de Beaune.

Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits 2005, A F Gros

2011-08-05T22:06:00.000+01:00

This may have been given to me as a present by Anne Francoise Gros to be shared with friends. Since my friends don't read this blog they will never know what they missed. Imbibed on the terrace in Puligny this chardonnay from the high plains above the Côte d'Or proper had a disconcerting dark yellow colour reminiscent of something unspeakable but known to all. Ahem. A fulsome nose of white asparagus, wheat and melted butter. Strong and consistent aromas. Sur le palais: cooked lemon, broad and flat like the Champagne region. This is due to the fruit drying out. Slightly oxidized on the finish. Salty mid-palate. Saline, almost sour on the gums. An element of pine kernel if heavily masticated. Pretty much what one would expect then from a 6 year old Hautes-Côtes. Photo shows an Hautes-Côtes vineyard in August 2011 surrounded by pine trees.

Volnay 1er Cru "Le Ronceret" 2000, Jean-Marc Boillot

2011-08-04T19:12:00.001+01:00

Over the years I have enjoyed many excellent wines - both white and red - from Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot based in Pommard. While 2000 was over-rated in Bordeaux (the link between the birth of Jesus and the quality of merlot and cabernet sauvignon grapes two thousand years later being a spurious and somewhat cynical marketing wheeze in my opinion) it was under-rated in Burgundy. This Volnay 1er Cru 2000 captures the essence of the vintage: within seconds of opening a deep, seductive, ripe nose of raspberry coulis and cassis urges itself out of the glass. Licorice, a hint of juniper and autumn leaves. The fine and sweet red berry fruit aromas linger on and on. Fresh red currant and black currant acidity makes this a lively wine to taste. Un vin digeste. The fruit is less present than on the nose as this 2000 is gently sliding into a savoury structure with lighter fruit texture. Best imbibed with a juicy wild pigeon cooked in the pot or duck served with a cherry sauce. But the first aroma is all this Volnay needs to offer to satisfy the hedonistic pleasures of a pinot lover!

Sancerre "En Grands Champs" 2010, Alphonse Mellot

2011-08-03T22:25:00.003+01:00

A third Sancerre pinot tasted from the barrel at a legendary tasting with Alphonse Mellot (blended in a single glass so the final article will differ). This pinot starts on a range of musk aromas: sun-warmed wild boar hair, thyme, sage, raw canard sauvage meat. After 1 minute of circulation in the glass these surprising aromas give way to seductive strawberries, ripe cassis, vanilla. Gamey, balanced, red fruits. Tasted blind one could fall into thinking of this as a Chassagne 1er Cru rouge. Interesting.

Sancerre "La Demoiselle" 2010, Alphonse Mellot

2011-08-03T22:20:00.000+01:00

This pinot is grown on a terroir which is unique to Sancerre -- le silex (flint stones). At this early stage of evolution this Sancerre is a resplendent purple colour with a fuschia-pink rim. Bright red cherry (griotte) aromas, a hint of blueberry (myrtille) and a lacing of kirsch schnapps. This flint-soil grown Sancerre pinot is sui generis. Fresh and balanced like a Burgundy but not a Burgundy! Aged two-thirds in Burgundy size 228 litre oak barrels and one-third in larger conical tonneau. This could challenge people in a blind tasting.

Sancerre "La Moussière" 2010, Alphonse Mellot

2011-08-03T22:13:00.002+01:00

I was Protestant, I visited a Catholic church, I am now ecumenical... During a four hour tasting Alphonse Mellot convinced me that the pinot noirs from Sancerre should be included in Burgoblog. Where else could these pinots rub shoulders with fellow French pinot noir wines? Even the officials are confused, until recently the sauvignon blancs from Pouilly-Fumé were governed and marketed by the Bureau Interprofessionnel des Vins de Bourgogne. Cometh the terroir and cepage, cometh the blog and palate. This entry-level Sancerre pinot has cherry, plum and violet aromas. Crunchy, structured, butch. At present it wears the cloak of oak heavily but will blend with the ripe fruit. Drink from mid-2012 onwards with red meat. In a blind tasting, I imagine I would place this as an Italian or Langeudoc pinot. Too big and ripe to be Burgundy.

Fixin "Les Herbues" 2009, Domaine Defrance

2011-08-03T21:58:00.001+01:00

I wonder if the ancestors of this family wandered far and wide and were obliged to tell people where they originated from. I've never met someone called "Mr Fromengland". Poor little Fixin, just 4,000 hl compared to 20,000 hl produced by big brother Gevrey. No wonder my Fixin bottle count is so low. After a buttered trout and a glass of Fixin blanc Au Clos Napoleon in Fixin I felt obliged to buy a case from a hitherto unknown producer. The labels from this domaine are perhaps the most picturesque of all time and would certainly please people who select their wine based on how nice red candles would look when stuck in the top and planted on the dining table. How about this wine? Black fruits, a dose of myrtilles, mashed sweet chestnut, brambles, cassis. Strangely for a Fixin, this is already drinking well now. Background licorice, good balance, pleasant fruit concentration. Best imbibed within the next 18 months. A fantastic price/quality combination! Photo shows the iconic circular corner tower on the main road through Fixin.

Saint-Aubin 1er Cru "En Remilly" 2007, Hubert Lamy

2011-08-03T21:41:00.000+01:00

This Saint-Aubin premier cru has been a regular occupant in my cellar since 1993. The quality has been consistently high. Unfortunately, like other white wines from Saint-Aubin, the prices have become elevated of late. This En Remilly 2007 is a light yellow colour, very reflective with thick legs. Initial aromas of apricot, pear, white peach. An overlay fragrance of cut daffodils and crushed dandelion stalks which perhaps reflect the cool summer in 2007. Fresh attack, lemon, a dash of bright lime, mineral, tart finish, tartaric acid seems to be high. Its a lively little newt this one. Presently lacks depth and impact. Worth trying again in 2013. Here are the tasting notes for the Hubert Lamy En Remilly 2000 and En Remilly 2002. Photo shows a pruning tractor driving back into the village with (I believe) En Remilly in the distance on the right of the photo.

Meursault 1er Cru "Charmes" 2002, Guy Bocard

2011-07-31T14:37:00.000+01:00

Guy Bocard warmed up to the wine-tasting banter going on between the five Burgoblog tasters and generously shared a couple of older wines with us. The "warm cat fur" tasting note brought the comment: "N'importe quoi!" from the wine-maker. This Meursault-Charmes 2002, known as a big vintage, has a honey colour, thick legs, bronze colour. Pastry crust, white honey, pineapple, ripe orange fruits with layers of clementine and pear. Long rounded and lush. Has a good acidity coats the throat. Ripe fruits on the finish. Intense. Superb example of mature Burgundy. A wine to be savoured and remembered. Photo shows the Meursault-Charmes vineyard in July 2007

Meursault "En Narvaux" 2008, Guy Bocard

2011-07-31T14:30:00.000+01:00

Another Meursault tasted at the domaine, this En Narvaux 2008 is fresh and mineral for the generally fruity and round 2008 vintage. Lemon, apple, fresh and light bouquet. This Meursault 2008 is fruit-driven, crystal clear flavours of citrus and apple. Mineral, dry, bright and racé. Unlike other 2008s, this seems as if it needs another 2 years to evolve and fill out. Probably due to the more limestone dominated terroir.

Meursault "Le Limozin" 2007, Guy Bocard

2011-07-31T14:27:00.000+01:00

Since 1999 when I first tasted the Bocard Limozin I have been a fan. Its one of those perfect, simple, citrus-driven Meursaults. Excellent with grilled white fish or solo as an aperitif. This 2007 starts with the interesting aromas of warm cat fur, white bread and dandelion. Evolves to camomille, brazil nut. Thick texture, bonne matiere. Lemon flavour with a big impact on the mid-palate. Flattering. Really good.

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru "La Garenne" 2004, Jean-Marc Boillot

2011-07-31T13:54:00.000+01:00

I have been impressed by the wines from Jean-Marc Boillot as well as from Jean Boillot. The Jean-Marc Boillot domaine has no less than seven different Puligny 1er crus. Tasted at Le Montrachet restaurant this Puligny immediately expressed its class as well as the distinct mineral focus of the 2004 vintage. An elegant bouquet of Jurassic coast, oysters, sel de guerande and sun-dried lobster shell. Linear, intense and lemon-dominated on the palate. Refreshing slightly salty finish with good density and a strong core. Very, very good. Photo shows Puligny vineyards and the red clay top soil looking down the slope towards Puligny.

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Macherelles" 2008, Guy Amiot

2011-07-31T08:32:00.000+01:00

Tasted at Le Montrachet, the restaurant in Puligny which is aspiring to achieve a Michelin star. We selected this Chassagne to accompany foie gras d'oie and tourteau (crabe) and it was a perfect match. Why? Guy Amiot makes Chassagne in a punchy, fruit-driven, peach-heavy style. Round, already open on the nose and frothing with peach, apricot and ripe orange aromas. Good balance and freshness on the finish. Continues the distinct style of Guy Amiot. Worth comparing with the tasting notes for a Saint-Aubin 1er Cru "En Remilly" 2004, Chassagne-Montrachet "Les Chaumes" 2004, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Clos Saint Jean" 2004.

Meursault "Les Grands Charrons" 2008, Guy Bocard

2011-07-30T11:37:00.002+01:00

Tasted after Les Grands Charrons 2007, this 2008 demonstrates why the vintage will be one to watch. Not much showing on the nose yet, but a classic Burgundy palate of ripe lemon, orange, lime, fresh unripe pineapple. Long and fresh. Different fruit layers. Will be superb in 2013. Les Grands Charrons are in the middle of the slope and the terroir is argilo-calcaire (clay-limestone). Photo shows Meursault at dawn in February 2008.

Meursault "Les Grands Charrons" 2008, Guy Bocard

2011-07-30T11:33:00.001+01:00

Meursault "Les Grands Charrons" 2007, Guy Bocard

2011-07-30T11:31:00.000+01:00

Another wine tasted at the domaine in early May 2011. Light fragrant perfumed. No new oak. Lightly cooked apple cubes. Peach and cherry juice. Sweet spices. Good structure. Nice acidity gives balance. This is also mouth filling. Guy Bocard harvests with machine which gives more control over when to harvest. A fine representative of the bright 2007 vintage. Work comparing with Les Grands Charrons 2007 from Sebastien Magnien.

Meursault Vieilles Vignes 2006, Guy Bocard

2011-07-30T11:25:00.000+01:00

Wines produced from "vieilles vignes" tend to be more unctuous and more concentrated than wines made from younger vines. It is always worth asking "how old?" because the use of the term "vieilles vignes" seems to vary between regions. These chardonnay vines are 50 years old. On the nose fennel, dandelion. Quite surprisingly herbaceous and prickly for the ripe 2006 vintage. Rich, tangy, ripe pear on the palate. Nice and plump. Imagine would be very good served chilled with a tian of crab or scallops and serano ham. Tasted at the domaine in early May.

Bourgogne Blanc 2008, Guy Bocard

2011-07-30T11:20:00.000+01:00

Having visited Guy Bocard's Meursault domaine in 1999 and in 2004 it was a pleasure to return for a tasting in May 2011. The tasting started on the wrong foot because we woke M. Bocard from his siesta and then one of our party, Peter "Jenson" Buttonhurst, asked M Bocard "Est-ce que vous avez une salle de bains?" which M Bocard took as a suggestion that he needed to take a shower. After clarifying his request and a thorough round of apologies we got the tasting started with this Bourgogne Blanc 2008. White flowers on the nose rich and fat with good length peach sweetness nice line of acidity. a lovely little wine with meursault characteristics. no new oak. 7-8 year old barrels. This was a hit with the tasting team and very good value to boot.

2011 Vintage -- The Story So Far

2011-07-30T11:00:00.000+01:00

How is the current vintage shaping up? Spring was exceptionally warm and dry. The vines were 3 weeks ahead of the normal lifecycle in early May. And this dry and warm spring continued through June. In early July the vendanges were predicted to start on August 25th! This would suggest 2011 would be similar to 2003. But then a cool and damp July set in and the grapes have slowed their development. This suggests a vintage more similar to 2007 which was very hot in spring and then was followed by a cloudy and cool summer. So, with 4 weeks left to go we can expect 2011 will be a vintage with an attractive fruit and floral nose (from the sunny, dry spring) and potentially a fresher palate due to the cool and rainy July. The structure depends on what happens in August. The forecast is for warm (23-29 oC) weather in the first half interspersed with local thunder storms.

Hautes-Côtes de Beaune "Les Perrières" 2003, Domaine d'Ardhuy

2011-07-10T19:21:00.001+01:00

Another case found at the back of Mitch "King's Pantry" Sedgwick's cellar. The 2003 vintage was not designed for significant bottle-ageing due to the low acidity and the over-ripe grapes. At least the higher altitude of the hautes côtes may have afforded some protection. This chardonnay Hautes Côtes de Beaune has a convincing medium yellow colour, very limpid. The nose is more like an Albarino: pine nuts, sea salt, lemon sponge, gateau de courge. Wafts away quickly like fluffy dandelion seeds. Broad orangey flavours. Falls away after awaking the front palate without being unpleasant. More like an orange pekoe tea than a chardonnay. C'est bon, mais c'est bizarre aussi!

Vosne-Romanée 2002, Jacques Cacheux

2011-06-28T22:47:00.000+01:00

The warm weather in London tempted me to open a bottle of New Zealand Sauvignon blanc. After half a glass I realized that Vosne-Romanée is a better choice during the Wimbledon weeks. And this Vosne is another splendid example of the rich, black fruit-driven and now perfectly mature 2002 vintage. From the Jacques Cacheux domaine, this pinot has a cherry red core colour with a fox fur rim. Cherry, plum, damson and a hint of medjool dates. Sweet aniseed and elements of beech bark with an underlying orange and strawberry rumptopf. Potent acidity, solid tannins and grippy plum fruit. Good and complex now. Needs to be consumed in the next 12 months like other 2002s.

Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru “Les Noirots” 2009, Bruno Clavelier

2011-06-17T23:13:00.000+01:00

Chambolle is famed as the Burgundy village for women, more so even than Volnay. The saying goes "Chambolle for women, Saint-Emilion for women". Not the most insightful saying I admit. This Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru is floral, with raspberry lane aromas, violets, pivoine, fleur de thyme. Very representative of the bio-dynamic Clavelier style which is high-toned and promises intriguing aromatic combinations after 5 years in bottle. Sapidité, lively, strong lines of acidity and tannin. A right wriggly number. I suspect this style is too eccentric for imbibers of négociant wines from the likes of Latour and Jadot.

Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru "Les Beaumonts" 2009, Bruno Clavelier

2011-06-17T22:59:00.000+01:00

This Vosne 1er Cru has a retarded, loganberry nose. Spherical, structured, closed. A combination of oolitic limestone and clay produces a more structured wine with salt and minerals. We considered this to be a Chabalesque wine. In tune with Bruno Clavlier's rugby playing past.

Vosne-Romanée "Les Brûlées" 2009, Bruno Clavelier

2011-06-17T22:51:00.000+01:00

This 2009 Vosne is produced from a vineyard with oolite and comblanchien limestone which has turned into a sand. Bruno Clavelier told us that the vineyard drains quickly and heats up quickly hence the vineyard which I liberally translate as "the roasters" (doesn't sound so good in English does it?). Cassis, strawberry, a little closed still on the nose. Great concentration, a big structure, potent, viscous, strong fin de bouche. Good indeed. Impressive contrast with the Vosne-Romanée "La Combe Brûlée" 2009.

Vosne-Romanée "La Combe Brûlée" 2009, Bruno Clavelier

2011-06-17T22:43:00.000+01:00

I am confident that Bruno Clavelier is one of the top 10 amateur geologists of the Côte d'Or. When we tasted at the domaine we were wowed by his knowledge of terroir. The domaine is run on bio-dynamic principles, the wines are organically certified and the philosophy is aimed at letting nature take its course. The wines are fascinating and distinctive. This Vosne 2009 has an intriguing vibrant nose of orange, morello cherry, pomegranite and myrtilles (blue berries). Aged 20% in new oak. Menthol, fascinating lovely soft black fruits. Good matière, fruit driven. Will drink well until 2014. Grown on a terroir with silicate fossils. Cracking wine.

Clos Saint Denis Grand Cru 2004, Pierre Amiot & Fils

2011-05-22T21:08:00.000+01:00

This domaine is based in Morey and has a couple of grands crus and premiers crus. As we all know, the 2004 on the Côte de Nuits (much less so on the Côte de Beaune) was horrific. I confess that I gave my femme de menage a bottle of Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru "Les Amoureuses" 2004 from Amiot-Servelle to share with her husband on the basis that she wouldn't realize that 2004 was a real stinker (she said it was very nice). When tasting a grand cru I believe one should start from a hypothetical benchmark of what one expects: complexity, balance, class and a wow factor. This Clos Saint Denis 2004 has an impressive plum and date colour. Cooked plum, baked cherry and arrow root aromas. Lingering cherry stone and cassis bark scrapings. A dash of orange sanguine. Spicy cooked oranges, ripe red currant and logan berry. Saline rather than sweet. This Clos Saint Denis 2004 grand cru is interesting and appetizing but not impressive or enormously enjoyable. Worth comparing with the Clos de la Roche 2004, a Vosne-Romanée 2004 from Robert Arnoux and a Chassagne 2004 from Hubert Lamy.

Blagny 1er Cru "La Pièce Sous Le Bois" 2007, Domaine Matrot

2011-05-18T23:35:00.000+01:00

Elsa described this Blagny rouge as the "cheval de bataille" of the domaine. Possibly the only red Blagny available in the world. This pinot from the hamlet of Blagny offers a wonderful mix of fruits: cassis, raspberry, cherry. Multiple red and berry fruit aromas intermingling. Consistent and rich on the palate. This is indeed a special wine. Possibly comparable with more elegant Volnays but nothing else is like this in the Côte d'Or.

Volnay 1er Cru "Santenots" 2007, Domaine Matrot

2011-05-18T23:24:00.000+01:00

Many of the top Meursault domaines produce red wines in the neighbouring village of Volnay. One can hardly imagine that they would go so far away as the Côte de Nuits! It just wouldn't be medieval. What would Charlemagne have said? Likewise, top Volnay producers like Bitouzet-Prieur also own vines in Meursault. This 2007 Volnay-Santenots has a medium-ruby colour. Open, floral notes, with a curlicue of orange-sanguine. Flavours of raspberry, ripe red currant, violets. Great purity and a linear structure. Further confirmation of the characteristic of 2007: fascinating, elegant nose with a fresh structure.

Meursault 2009, Domaine Matrot

2011-05-15T20:59:00.003+01:00

This is that rare species, rarer than the red panda, the red Meursault. These rare pinot vines appear to thrive in the predominantly chardonnay-planted commune of Meursault. Ripe strawberry and cherry aromas which are thick and nasal aroma-bud coating. Very rich, medium-bodied, fruit, charming. Mineral and ripe tannin structure with a lacing of iron. Great wine and would be good to throw into a blind-tasting. Photo shows Dr Burgundy feeding a chardonnay grape to a red panda.

Auxey-Duresses 2009, Domaine Matrot

2011-05-15T20:43:00.001+01:00

I first developed a taste for Auxey-Duresses when studying in Dijon. There is some decent complexity in the wines and the price if more friendly for the impoverished student living out the Scènes de la vie de bohème. This Auxey rouge is already very open, strawberry and cassis. Ripe red fruits, good tannic structure, followed by cherry fruit, a touch of hawthorn bark. This is a punchy Auxey 2009 closer to the Monthélie vineyards. A rack of lamb would be a willing companion.

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Chalumeaux" 2007, Domaine Matrot

2011-05-15T20:30:00.000+01:00

Les Chalumeaux is a 1er cru lieu-dit fairly high on the hill close to Blagny and at an equivalent altitude as Les Folatières and the upper reaches of Meursault-Perrières. The top soil here is lighter than further down the Côte. This Puligny-Chalumeaux tasted at the domaine has an intriguing aroma of honey roast ham, red apple and sweet chestnuts. Apple and cherry flavours laced with lime and lemon with a pleasing sweetness. Well crafted for the Burgundy connaisseur this Puligny still needs, in my humble opinion, another 2 years to fully spread its wings. Would be a shame to miss out on the complexity. Photo is a blurred action shot of Thierry Matrot opening a bottle for the Burgloblog team in April 2010.

Meursault-Charmes 1er Cru 2007, Domaine Matrot

2011-05-15T19:20:00.001+01:00

I greatly enjoy Meursault-Charmes and I have this lingering question in my mind. Is Meursault-Charmes really that different from the contiguous Puligny vineyards Les Referts and Les Combettes? The topsoil and exposition are very similar. This Meursault-Charmes from the 2007 vintage has baked orange, danish pastry and orange soufflé aromas. There is salinity not sucrosité on the palate. Soft fruits (white peach) and then a big, fresh finish with a long impact in the mouth (fruit) with less of a longueur. Will fill out into a blockbuster worthy of lobster thermidor or a platter of scallops in a rich sauce.

Meursault 2007, Domaine Matrot

2011-05-15T18:51:00.003+01:00

When tasting the Meursault 2009 I was wondering out loud if the mineral-style Matrot wines would develop a hint of honey. And then Elsa kindly opened this Meursault 2007 which starts on... a clear note of white honey! For a 2007 this already seems expressive, a majestic nose of pecan pie, orange zest, real attack on the palate, very sharp lemon and lime, mineral. Dare I say it almost like a Chablis 1er Cru when it was tasted. I mean Chablis in a good way as I tried to explain to Elsa and Thierry Matrot. When in a hole stop digging... Most importantly this is the 2007 vintage through-and-through: an expressive nose from a very warm spring and zingy acidity and minerality from a cool summer. Excellent combination.

Meursault 2009, Domaine Matrot

2011-05-15T18:46:00.000+01:00

Tasted at the domaine in early May, I consider the Matrot Meursault to be a benchmark for the village appellation. Presently not much showing on the nose (bearing in mind this was tasted at cellar temperature). But the palate has an impressive multi-layered structure which moves through different phases of white, yellow and citrus fruit. Mineral finish. Definitely still a benchmark for Meursault and will be interested to see if it develops a honey note which even the elegant Domaine Comte Lafon wines evolve towards. Worth noting that this is very good and it isn't cheap either!